Articles

Tools and Bonsai -- Do we need them?

2010-02-01T15:24:00.084-04:00

This topic of discussion at times has turned as nasty as debating soil recipes, but it need not be. Do we need special tools in order to pursue Bonsai? To many, bonsai tools are a mere extravagance, to others a necessity in pursuing the craft. I guess it boils down to personal opinion, taste and budget.

I am what we could categorize as a frugal bonsaiist. If there is a way to save a penny here or there I use every opportunity. Our parents used to say "a penny saved is a penny earned". Well in this day's economy, the advice spurred by the great depression still applies today. After all each dollar we save can be put to good use, acquiring more trees perhaps.

So what are necessary tools that
a starting enthusiast needs, if any?

Discussion
In all honesty, in the beginning the newly introduced enthusiast needs very little in matter of tools. A good set of pointed shears (below) and a chopstick is all that is really required. As your interests grow and advances in the art, you may find the need for certain tools in order to facilitate the work being conducted at current levels.

These are available nearly everywhere. They are made by "Fiskars" and are relatively inexpensive, sturdy and can get in to some pretty tight places. Used properly they last a very long time. My set is going on ten years now. They are still as good today as the day I bought them.

A simple device that many skimp on, and I was guilty as well. Watering, not only watering, but watering properly is probably the most important task in Bonsai. There is something to say about a good Japanese watering wand. This one produces a fine rain shower, it comes with an adjustable valve. The stream is so gentle it doesn't disturb even the finest of soils. I have tried many different wands/imitations, nothing beats the real thing.

Feeling the need...
OK, so you have been able to keep your Bonsai alive and have gathered a longing interest in the art of Bonsai and feel now is the time to acquire some much needed tools. Three or four basic tools will equip you to perform most of all the tasks necessary to produce and maintain Bonsai. That being said...

The quality and price of Bonsai tools varies considerably. There is an old saying "you get what you pay for" -- and this is true when it comes to Bonsai tools. The poorest quality Japanese tools are consistently superior to those made anywhere else, especially those from China. It is worth your while to save and buy a decent Japanese tool, than buying a couple of inferior Chinese tools only to purchase the Japanese one in the end. You do not need to purchase the expensive line of Japanese tools like Masakuni, an intermediate line from Joshua Roth is probably the best bang for your buck out there.

Stainless or carbon steel? This comes down to personal preference and budget in my opinion. If one takes good care of their high quality carbon steel tools, they will perform just as well as stainless. It has been said that some stainless tools seem to dull quicker than their carbon counterparts. My personal taste, I prefer carbon steel any day of the week and three times on Sunday. I never liked how stainless held an edge, not to mention the difficulty in replacing that edge. I have owned several stainless knives in the past that I gave away. Give me Solligen steel any day. Furthermore, the way the Japanese forge their steel, it is technically far superior than many out there.

The basic tool set

The Concave Cutter is a razor sharp tool designed for cutting branches flush to the trunk, leaving an elongated depression. The resulting wound can then heal over quickly with little scarring. The Concave Cutter is the single most important tool for Bonsai use and for which there is no substitute. Some say a normal set of pruning shears will do the same job, they simply don't. The angle of attack is totally different.

These wire cutters are designed specifically for Bonsai wire. Although enthusiasts new to Bonsai sometimes substitute standard wire cutters for economy, the Japanese have designed these with a rounded head to prevent damaging the branch when cutting, and with jaws that cut the wire symmetrically and cleanly. Highly recommended for serious enthusiasts.

The Knob Cutter is a valuable addition to the Bonsai tool kit even though it is used much less frequently than Concave Cutters. This cutter is designed for removing trunk knobs and roots. The head is shaped like a ball, hence the name "Spherical". They produce a hollow, circular cut that heals quickly and with minimum of scarring.

An additional use for the Knob Cutter is the removal of undesirable root or trunk material in the area beneath the trunk. The aggressive nibbling ability readily removes excess callous material quickly and cleanly. The lack of space and angle of attack to perform this task, makes it difficult to use any other tools. Depending on the amount of root work one performs with this tool, it may be advisable to buy two, or...

- purchase a Spherical Concave Cutter. Similar to the Concave Cutter but, if we compare the cutting heads, the "Spherical" Cutter is a combination of both Concave and Knob Cutter. This would be a good choice for the frugal bonsaiist, using this tool in place of the Concave Cutter when the Knob Cutter is used for root work.

Although these shears may not be necessary in the immediate beginning, they prove invaluable for pruning fine roots versus the set of kitchen scissors. These are Chinese made, come as a set of 4, and are relatively cheap and hence disposable. But these will last for many years nonetheless --3 years later I am still using mine. It will save you from using your good shears where they do not belong.

That is all that is needed for the time being. As one advances the need for more specialized tools may manifest itself and one may chose to increase their tool arsenal. Let the task dictate your next purchase, if required.

Intermediate tool set

Th Root Cutter is specifically designed for pruning roots during transplanting and re-potting. Unlike Knob Cutters, which have spherically-contoured heads, the cutting blades of Root Cutters are straight. The blades are much stronger for cutting the denser wood fibers usually found in roots. The head is contoured to provide added clearance.

Soil removal and untangling roots is a regular the chore when re-potting. A chopstick or something similar is often used, especially with small size Bonsai. Working with larger trees or difficult root pads, a more substantial tool is needed. A variety of root hooks with as many as three prongs are available. Single point tools are superior in getting the job done with minimal damage to fine roots.

An another indispensable item during re-potting. This root knife slices through a root pad with ease and will even tackle larger roots and small trunks.

Small Japanese carvers saw which works on the pull stroke, excellent for notching branches. The narrow rake of this saw makes a smooth clean cut. A lot of success in bonsai is determined by clean wood cuts, whether is be grafting or branch removal or notching.

The Ashinaga Basami shear is a basic tool for thinning and defoliating Bonsai. The Standard Concave Branch Cutter and the Ashinaga shear are generally considered the two most basic Bonsai tools. This tool balances well and is extremely comfortable to use.

Even if the enthusiast purchases Bonsai soil, he will still need to remove the "fines" (small dust particles). This set consists of a 12" diameter by 3" high stainless steel frame with three interchangeable screens of 4, 5, and 10 meshes per inch. Use to grade soils for layering and to remove fine compacting dust that inhibits proper drainage.

Soil Scoops are handy for mixing Bonsai soil and for scooping soil into Bonsai pots. These scoops have fine built-in screens (17 meshes per inch) that sift out dust as you scoop. These come in real handy for folks that make large quantities of soil (good winter chore) which are subsequently stored in large pails, which require minor sifting during potting.

Bent Nose Tweezers--an indispensable tool as one advances. Use to remove unwanted buds, pulling pine needles or general Bonsai cleanliness such as: removing dead leaves; insects; needles; weeds and other fine debris around the base of Bonsai. As with the Bonsai Rakes the symmetrically- shaped spatulas are well suited for tamping soil and the semi-sharp edges of the half-moon spatula work well for scraping soil and loosening soil around the edges of containers.

The 3-prong rake is convenient for working the soil during transplanting, as well as for general care. The rake is used to gently remove soil around the roots and to stir up the soil. The symmetrical spatula is well suited for tamping soil around the base of Bonsai.

Hemp Broom--To some this would be an extravagant expense. It has a multitude of uses around a Bonsai pot: tamping down soil; brushing down trunks; to cleaning the pot after a re-pot. As it was part of my tool kit, it cost nothing.

The frugal bonsaist may wish to take the plunge in one step so to speak. The purchase of tools as a kit proves to be cost effective in the long run. This is the Joshua Roth (Japanese) Intermediate Tool Kit - complete with suede roll (to protect your tools). I have used them all with the exception of their leaf trimmer. The kit came with a Root Rake that I do not use on roots but use to scar the soil surface as required.

Specialty tools for the more advanced

The Trunk Splitter is designed to split trunks with minimum residual damage. The shape of the head and the symmetrical cutting blades provide the clearance and cutting actions necessary to achieve clean splits.

The tiny head of the Professional grade Me-Tsumi, the smallest Standard Concave Cutter, permits incredibly fine, close cuts on very small foliage. Its main applications are with early Bonsai and new growth on larger trees. This cutter is indispensable to anyone that grows Shohin and Mame size Bonsai.

This was the second tool I purchase after my set. A most efficient tool for general bonsai shaping and trimming. This tool features straight handles which allows the cutting blades of the tool to penetrate deep into tight areas unlike the Ashinaga style shears. Both shears are a pleasure to use.

As you start working with larger trees, you need bigger tools. This is the Professional size which comes in at 12 inches. The Intermediate one just couldn't handle some of the bigger branches. When this one doesn't get the job done, well there is always this...

... these are loppers with mechanical advantage. No need to buy an expensive Japanese set. The frugal bonsaiist uses garden implements where suitable.

Sooner or later when dealing with larger trees, a Branch Jack will be required. A Chinese one proves adequate for the chore.

Branch Bender--this has proven to be an invaluable tool when extra hands are not available.

Branch Jacks, come in small, medium and large. These little joys are useful for bending or straightening difficult branches. If these are improperly used they can damage the tree. Their design permits "adding pressure" every couple of weeks or so until the desired results are achieved. Many inexperienced enthusiast use them to position the branch in place in "one go" so to speak. This is not the way to proceed and if one looks carefully, it is easy to see that one might cut off circulation to the branch if used to aggressively. It is meant as a time tool.

These Burins have a nice set of balance and work on the pull stroke for carving deadwood on Bonsais.

The frugal bonsaiist
This makes people laugh. How can you be practice Bonsai (a relatively expensive obsession) and be frugal? Well that is quite simple, choose to spend your money wisely and efficiently. In other words, get the best bang for your buck. Remember I said frugal, I didn't say cheap. There are many ways one can save and still get the job done, let' read on...

Anything that has "Bonsai" in it's name is going to be pricey, it's the nature of the beast. Someone has caught on to this many years ago and is still milking this cow today. But there are ways to stretch the scarcity of the mighty dollar:

This is the first tool I made (for Bonsai), it's a root hook made from scraps lying around the work shop. It is custom made to fit my hand. The hook was made out of a piece of "drill rod" and the handle from a scrap of Mahogany. 3 coats of Danish Oil later and this beauty works like a charm. Not too many of these around with a Mahogany handle;

Bonsai screening mesh cost $5 for 3 sheets of 4 x 12 inches, or you can purchase an $0.99 sheet of plastic meshing at any craft store. Want to get fancy? They come in a variety of colours;

Bonsai Fertilizer--give me a break! Fertilizer is fertilizer, there is no such thing as fertilizer "specifically" designed for Bonsai. Their marketing should read specifically designed for your deep wallet. Any balanced fertilizer at recommended manufacturer's dosage will do just fine at a fraction of the cost;

Transplanting Fertilizer--Look at the make up of "transplant fertilizer" it has an NPK of 10-52-10, sells for an arm and a leg or you can buy (10-52-10) by the tub for a fraction of the cost;

In Canada there has been a real strong push not to mention legislation banning the use of herbicides and pesticides. One way around it is a product called "Leaf shine" at $17.00 per litre. It's active ingredient is Neem oil in disguise (mind you diluted) or you can acquire a bottle of Neem oil (not on the ban list) for half the cost and manufacture 100 litres of insecticide;

Soil--If a good brand of Bonsai Soil is available in your locale (no shipping) and you don't mind paying a little extra for it, it could prove a large investment. However, if you are using gallons and gallons, or need to have it shipped to you, you are better off mixing your own, once again with components available in your area;

Bud Scissors--I bought a set of "nose hair" scissors at the local drug store for pruning Hinoki fan whorls. They work great at a fraction of the coast;

Root Rakes--a old kitchen fork can substitute quite nicely;

Rafia--a necessity for wrapping larger branches prior to serious bending. Once again available at most craft stores at a fraction of the cost;

Bonsai pots--are you planning to display your trees? If not, then why do you need a Tokoname pot? Any good quality Chinese pot in the proper shape, colour and size to complement the tree will do nicely. If you live in colder climates, the pot needs to be vitrified (frost proof) to withstand the harshness of your winter freeze/thaw cycles; and

Display tables--if you are a woodworker, make your own.

Conclusion
Why do I use Bonsai Tools? Because they were designed for use on Bonsai. I like the angle of attack of the tool on any given task related to but not limited to Bonsai. I use my Concave Cutters in pruning landscape trees in the yard. As stated I buy tools with multiple uses in mind. Take the Knob or Root Cutter as an example, not other tool can get the job done in that area, at least not with the ease of using the proper tool for the proper job.

Let the task dictate what you need vice going out and buying everything you think you might need

Buy a good quality tool (Japanese) at reasonable cost and substitute where applicable with knock offs (root work) or use tools already at your disposal

Shy away from anything that states "for bonsai use", don't be afraid to look at alternate sourcing e.g "garden centres"

If you are a woodworker (which I am) many tools used in the workshop can find a use in Bonsai e.g "die grinder", "dremel", carving chisels etc... to name a few

If this seems like extravagance let me assure you it is not, just reality. Remember I stated the art of Bonsai was an expensive endeavour. Spending wisely and effectively is key. I am quite frugal but--if the proper tool, for the proper job is used, regardless of the application, included but not limited to Bonsai, work becomes effortless, and lastly...

The Itchiban Tool
seven tools in one!

The latest tool to hit the market is the Itchiban (I know there is no "T" in Ichiban, but if you got an itch to scratch...) designed and created in consultation with Masakuni of Japan by a professional. This tool was specifically designed for an individual. This tool is endorsed by several professionals around the World. Many of these professionals are sponsored to endorse the product. To the average individual you will need to dish out $350 US for this marvelous invention. The average individual and the frugal minded enthusiast, merely passes. A wise decision, as in my humble opinion this is indeed pure extravagance! This tool caused as much controversy when it hit the market, that one would think we were debating soil recipes.

Photos Courtesy of:
Natural Bonsai, Joshua Roth, Lee Valley Tools, Fiskars and Bonsai Discoveries.

Soil mechanics and drainage

2010-01-29T21:41:00.073-04:00

"Add a layer of gravel or other coarse material in the bottom of containers to improve drainage"

Introduction
The above statement is pure, unadulterated hogwash! As we read on, we will see that providing such a layer has the opposite effect of what we are trying to accomplish--drainage. In turn, many will argue they serve a useful purpose and will attempt to support their arguments with "the Japanese use them..." This statement in my opinion is overused and overrated.

Aim
The aim of this article is to debunk the myth that adding a layer of coarser material at the bottom of a container improves overall drainage. It will be further demonstrated that adding such a layer has the opposite effect of impeeding drainage. The discussion will demonstrate that the saturation zone can in fact be manipulated through the use of varying particulate size advantageously, the latter is not to be construed as “added drainage”. Without further adue, let us see what transpires below the surface.

The Myth
This is just one of those myths that refuses to die, regardless of solid scientific evidence to the contrary! Nearly every book or web site on container gardening recommends placing coarse material at the bottom of containers for drainage. The materials most often recommended for this practice are sand, gravel, pebbles, and pot shards. Other ‘benefits’ often mentioned include preventing creatures from entering through the drain holes, and stabilizing the container.

The Reality
Nearly 100 years ago, soil scientists demonstrated that water does not move easily from layers of finer textured materials to layers of more coarse textured. Since then, similar studies have produced the same results. Additionally, one study found that more moisture was retained in the soil underlain by gravel than that underlain by sand. Therefore, the coarser the underlying material, the more difficult it is for water to move across the interface. Imagine what happens in a container lined with pot shards!

Some have mentioned soil interfaces and their inhibition of water movement. We can see the same phenomenon occurring here: gravitational water will not move from a finely soil texture into a coarser material until the finer soil is saturated. Since the stated goal for using coarse material in the bottoms of containers is to "keep soil from getting water logged,” it is ironic that adding this material will induce the very state it is intended to prevent.
- Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott

The test...
The following experiment was extracted from an article written by Brent Walston “Why the Earth Is Not Like a Pot”. A simple test that can be conducted by anyone, in the comfort of their own home, without any scientific or laboratory equipment.

Material requirement:
A kitchen sponge 2x5x1/2 inch
An oven rack

Place your oven rack over the sink, this will represent your drainage layer. Take a simple 2x5x1/2" kitchen sponge place it on your oven rack over the sink, the sponge represents the soil, any soil, regardless of size.

Now, thoroughly saturate the sponge (soak it in a bowl) then place it on the rack (large surface down) and allow it to drain. When the sponge stops dripping, turn it on it's edge so that it is 2 inches high and see how much water drains out--this is all the additional water that remained behind after a thorough drain. After the sponge has drained, turn it on it's end so the height of the sponge is now 5 inches. See all the water that is still coming out of what we thought was a thoroughly drained sponge? It's amazing and why is that? The sponge's volume never changed during this experiment--it had a given holding capacity. The only way to change the holding capacity of the sponge would be to change it's density. To reduce the holding capacity due to surface tension, one would use a sponge with a greater porosity, not dissimilar to using larger components in our soil.

The water drained because of the height of the water column. Since the weight of the column was greater than the surface tension provided by the sponge, once the weight and tension were equal, the sponge quit draining. In other words, the weight of the water was greater because of the height of the column in any given container etc... Once this weight equals the opposing tension provided by the substrate, it no longer drains as all is in balance.

Now think of the drainage layer at the bottom of the pot as the rack above your sink. A drainage layer will provide a medium which produces less tension--therefore the water will flow right through it. The trapped water (saturation zone or perched water) will still be in the finer course of substrate, regardless of what that size is. Therefore, the "drainage layer" does not provide extra drainage.

The experiment further shows that pot shape will play a large role in water retention. A broad shallow pot will retain more water than a tall narrow pot of equal volume (if using identical substrate). Although this is counterintuitive, a shallow pot will indeed retain more water and “dry out” more slowly than a tall narrow pot of equal volume. Mind you, one can argue that a shallower pot has a greater surface area than a deeper pot of equal volume, and therefore evaporation will be quicker. This is not so! Why? Although, the shallower pot has a greater surface area, it also has retained a greater amount of water (as proven with the sponge), therefore a deeper pot of equal volume has retained less water therefore will evaporate and dry out more quickly.

An amusing slant...
Many folks use a drainage layer because the Japanese still use them. What I find amusing is that for years now Japanese enthusiasts have moved away from deep cascade pots. Their reason for doing so was/is:

"you do not see tall pot used for cascade any more in japan. tall stand is used because the tree grow on the cliff. tall pot is difficult to use. gravity will pull water to the bottom. the surface will stay dry for that reason. and when it get root bound, it is very difficult to take the tree out of the pot. i hope the explanation make sense. it is personal taste. i used to grow my cascade in tall pot when i started bonsai. it is because i was told and the reason at that time seems logical. but i grow out of it. i find better logical reason"
- Boon Manakitivipart

Once again, think of the sponge. The saturation zone is at the bottom of the pot. Many times the root mass does not occupy the entire depth of the pot. It is said they prefer a shallow root mass because a deeper root mass becomes a re-potting challenge. To counter this challenge, they have opted for taller stands with shallower pots for cascading bonsai. Was/is there another solution to their dilemma? The answer would be yes. With regards to personal taste, we will discuss aesthetics further on.

Discussion
I believe we have become so preoccupied with growing bonsai artistically, that we might have forgotten many important horticultural practices in the process. Probably because bonsais are “special”. Cultivating and caring for bonsai is no different in principle than container gardening. Now, some may argue this point, but is a bonsai pot not a container? If so, then you are container gardening, for all intents and purposes. Although the myth of drainage layers has been debunked for years, even centuries, it persists. So what is happening beneath the surface?

It goes without saying that a soil with coarser components will not only drain faster, retain less water but evaporation will be greater when compared against a soil that utilizes finer components.

Watering Containers
A few seconds after you start watering a container, all pores are filled with water, displacing the air from the pores. Drainage occurs through the holes at the bottom of the container (Fig. 5.1). After you stop watering, drainage continues and the wet profile slowly moves downward while air moves inside the pores at the top. After drainage has stopped (Fig. 5.2-5.5), the lower part of the mix remains saturated with water. The depth (or height) of this saturation layer is not determined by the number and size of the drainage holes. Saturation is determined by the pore sizes of the mix, which is determined by particle size or texture. A pot filled with a coarse mix (with large pores) will have a smaller saturation zone (Fig. 5.5) than a pot filled with a fine (smaller pores) mix (Fig. 5.6). This is strictly a physical phenomenon called capillarity.

Fig 5 (Courtesy Ohio State University)

Figure 5. The watering of containers. 1) Saturation of the medium due to watering. 2-4) Drainage occurs; water moves out of the containers through the bottom holes allowing air to move in at the top. 5) After drainage has stopped, the lower portion of the mix is still saturated while in the upper portion of the mix the particles are surrounded by water but pores have air. 6) If the same pot is filled with a finer mix, the saturation layer would be larger (higher).

In a saturation zone, all pores are filled with water and no air, while the mix above has pores containing both air and water. Unless roots remove the water from the saturation zone, water remains at the bottom of the pot for a long time, because evaporation through the top of the mix is a very slow process.

Lack of oxygen puts root systems of some plants under severe stress, making them more susceptible to diseases. Furthermore, pathogens such as Pythium and Phytophtora require a water-saturated environment to infect roots. Minimizing the size and duration of the saturation layer should be a high priority.

The idea still persists that drainage from containers can be improved by adding a layer of coarse material, such as gravel, to the bottom of the container. In reality, this makes matters worse because the saturation layer is simply moved up, reducing the unsaturated portion of the container (Fig. 6).

Fig 6 (Courtesy Ohio State University)

The saturation zone
As seen in Figure 6, adding a course of larger particles to the bottom of the pot for improving drainage has the inverse effect of not improving drainage, but merely raising the saturation zone. Should you have roots extending to the bottom then, as can be seen, the lower portion of your root mass will be sitting in water. In WWI many veterans contracted and suffered from "trench foot" after prolonged exposure. What is happening to your roots, more important, where is the oxygen?

Bonsai Lindsay Farr's WorldOfBonsai episode 18 from Vimeo.

The video not only depicts the use of a "drainage layer", but the use of several courses of varying component size. What is the apprentice trying to achieve? At minute 1:48 in the video we see him adding a layer of large particles. At minute 2:00 he adds a medium size layer which he mounds nearly to the top of the pot. At minute 3:30 he adds medium size soil to the outside rim of the pot. He then works that in with a chopstick. At minute 4:00 he adds a fine layer almost to the rim of the pot, once again using a chopstick to fill all the root cavities, followed by a layer of mountain moss on the surface.

Based on what can be seen and has been written, why did he use multiple layers of varying sizes, when we know that the saturation zone will be in the fine layer of soil? Is that a good thing?

Bonsai Aesthetics
A lot of what we do in Bonsai circulates around the artistic side or aesthetics. Pots are chosen for their complementary aspect to the tree and when done right, they frame each other nicely in perfect harmony. Is this practice wrong? I would have to say no.

When choosing a pot, we are driven by certain fundamentals, artistically speaking. It is these fundamentals that determine the pot size in reference to the tree, nothing else (for the moment). It is further evident in the video that the pot complimented the tree and was of appropriate size to accommodate the tree. The depth as we know is determined by the trunk diameter at the base with no reference to the depth of the root pad, so to speak. We know in the beginning the root pad could be quite thick until we have pruned the renegade roots to suit bonsai culture. Once the unruly roots are tamed, the root pad thickness is quite shallow by comparison. In this particular case (video), the root mass is too shallow for such a deep pot. So it was indeed necessary to build the soil level in the pot so the height of the tree sitting in the pot was just right.

Overpotting
Most of the water in the pot is removed from the pot by absorption by the roots and not by evaporation. If you over-pot, it will take a long time for roots to colonize the bottom of the container and consequently it will take much longer for the saturated layer to become fully aerated ((the only factor at work is evaporation remember this)). Over-potting will generally lead to overly wet conditions and eventually root rot.

Water will drain from a pot until the lowest level of saturated soil (that can be supported) is reached. At this point drainage stops and this saturated layer remains saturated, no more water will drain out, ever. The height of this column of soil depends on the nature of the mix. A coarser soil will have a lower (shallower) column or layer of saturated soil than a finer mix. The total retained amount of water is less for a coarser soil.

Water can be removed from this saturated layer in two ways: evaporation (the water will be wicked upward as water evaporates from the surface), or by the absorption of water by the roots (powered by foliage transpiration). Of these two, removal by transpiration is by far the most effective. To prove this to yourself, just place two pots of identical soil next to each other, one with an established plant in it, the other with no plant. Water them thoroughly and then compare the weight of the pots over the period of one hot summer day.

If the plant is not root established, it cannot remove very much water by transpiration. This leaves too much water in the parts of soil without roots. In the short run, this is not much of a problem. In a proper environment, the plant will grow and will root establish quickly so that the saturated level is wicked dry in a day or two after a few weeks or months of growth.

However, ifthe pot is so large that the saturated level cannot be removed by normal root colonization, problems begin. This is not dependent on the soil type. With coarse soils a larger pot could be tolerated, but there are still limits to the space that can be quickly root colonized.

If you are using an organic amendment such as bark, you will experience accelerated soil composting. This means that you will lose youreffective soil particle size more quickly than if you used a smaller pot which is wicked dry daily. This is the most common effect. You use a pot that is too large and it stays too wet. The organic amendment quickly decays in this wet environment, particle size decreases, soil collapses, the saturated level increases, even more water is retained, roots eventually remain in standing water, root failure occurs with, or without, the presence of a pathogen. Using only stable inorganic amendments would avoid this scenario, but there are other problems.

Even if the above doesn't occur, what kind of root growth occurs in a volume that is not wicked dry daily? When you water properly, a new charge of air is pulled into the pot by the volume of water draining from the drain holes. Carbon dioxide and other gases are purged from the soil. The longer you leave these gases in the soil, and the longer you wait to introduce a fresh charge of oxygen, the poorer the roots will be. If you create a situation such as over-potting that doesn't require daily watering, then you don't obtain an optimal soil growing environment.
- Brent walston

Back to the video...
We previously discussed that for aesthetic reasons the pot was of the appropriate size for the tree. We have also seen/read the dangers of over-potting. Although, aesthetically, the pot was the proper size, the pot was/is not suitable for horticultural reasons. Why is that? The same reason the Japanese moved away from deep cascade pots. The soil would dry out too quickly. This can be compensated by reducing the size of the components but at the detriment of drainage and oxygen-holding capacity of the soil. So what is the solution? Move the saturation zone closer to where it is required, at the roots, and that is what the video depicts, not increasing drainage.

In the video, it can clearly be seen that the size of the mesh would not permit the use of the soil he used for the top layer as it would simply fall through the mesh. So, he used a large size component as his first layer. The advantage of such a layer was to occupy a large portion of the bottom of the pot and provide a barrier for subsequent layers. He continued to fill the pot with medium size soil which he mounded at the center. It should be noted here that the level of soil used is/was commensurate with the proper final tree height after wiring the tree to the container.

Now, he could have very well continued filling the soil with medium sized soil particles, but that would have moved the saturation zone to the bottom of the pot, away from the root pad as seen in the previous discussion. So, one might ask, why did he fill the outer circumference of the root pad with medium sized particles? Quite simply, once again, to contain the saturation zone where needed: at the roots. If we remember the video, the tree is sitting on medium size particles and the depth of the medium size particles he adds to the circumference of the pad is only as thick as the root pad itself. All these layers merely form a container within a container.

He finishes off with the last layer of finer particles which acts as a top dressing, more or less. This layer is not very thick--as a matter of fact if we think of it, very little soil is in the pot, figuratively speaking. We could stop here and all would be fine but, watering frequency would be excessive as a result of the evaporation rate of the soil, due in a large part to tree uptake and a significant, although lesser, surface evaporation. To resolve this, he added mountain moss to slow down surface evaporation and to keep the root pad relatively cool (think of refrigeration here). The massive root pad is more than capable of keeping its planting zone moist and not sodden until the tree is once again watered.

Back to our cascade pot...
I understand and support the artistic idea that a tall stand represents a cliff, it is logical and makes a lot of sense when compared to a tall pot. Based on the aforementioned discussion, is it still possible to use a deep cascade pot without the chance of the soil drying out too rapidly? The answer would be yes, by manipulating the saturation zone as was done with the Azalea.

Adding coarser material to the bottom of the pot, to a height just below the root mass, would ensure that the saturation zone would be at root level, would it not? If this latter statement seems doubtful, go back to the sponge.

OK! it could be argued then, why aren't the Japanese doing this? More than likely because, outside of artistic reasons, it just is not practical to do so. There are advantages to using a massive "drainage layer": added weight down low in the pot provides for greater pot stability on a bonsai bench; it counterbalances the weight of the cascading branch (some of these are quite large); it also allows for the saturation zone to be much higher in the pot (at root level); and reducing watering frequency (compared to a full depth cascade pot, which retains very little moisture because of the height of the water column.) The disadvantages to such a practice are: cost of potting material and weight. It would prove to be very impractical to carry out this method with “large bonsai”, but nonetheless quite suitable for much smaller bonsai. Also, not all trees are displayed and hence supported/elevated by stands, and not everyone has "monkey poles" as part of their landscape.

Soil composition
What is the perfect soil? The perfect soil is: one that drains readily; provides good oxygenation; has the ability to retain moisture (read moisture not water); and provide our trees with the required nutrients. I would like to touch on the last point for a second...

Based on the data evidenced herein, where does the excess fertilizer go in an improperly constructed substrate or with an over-potted bonsai incapable of ridding the pot of accumulated water in the saturation zone? It could be argued that, with subsequent watering, the unused portion of fertilizer would be diluted and eventually carried away. But is it? We haven't talked about capillary action of the soil or wicking.

In the ideal world (with of the right soil composition,) when fertilizing our trees, what was not used by the tree or retained by the soil would drain away, preventing the accumulation of unwanted salts in our pot.

What has been discussed in the past is that we underfeed our trees due to the use of modern substrate. We have come to find out that we need to feed our trees at a greater frequency, to compensate for the lack of the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of modern substrate. In other words, because we have moved to almost inert soils, we need to feed our trees at lesser intervals than practiced in the past.
- Walter Pall

Because we feed our trees at a greater frequency when using modern substrate, the accumulation of unwanted salts is quite possible in an improper draining substrate or, with an inadequate pot carrying a saturation zone greater than what can be processed by the tree and evaporation. Because of this, not all fertilizer was washed away between feedings. In the latter instance, the danger does exist for over-fertilization.

I believe it is more important to find a balance in "soil construction" versus manipulating the saturation zone for proper moisture retention between watering. As discussed, this can be easily achieved by manipulating particle size: larger for shallow pots; and finer for deeper pots. We can also assist the water retentive capacity of any substrate by the addition of a greater portion of water retentive matter e.g. shredded Sphagnum Moss, Lava Rock etc... or by reducing the amount of inert particulate (grit) vice reducing the area occupied by the oxygen in favour of finer particles, which in turn increase the saturation zone.

In conclusion
The addition of a "drainage layer" does not improve drainage. This is a myth and it has been debunked for quite some time, although many still believe in the practice.

The size and height of the saturation zone is commensurate with the granular size of the medium used and the overall depth of the pot.

We can manipulate the height of the saturation zone by varying the size of our potting components to our benefit when usin deeper pots.

It is better to use a substrate with coarser components and a smaller saturation zone than it is to have a finer soil which in turns has a larger water carrying capacity with less oxygen.

It is better to add water retentive components to our substrate rather than decreasing its size in favour of moisture retention. The latter assist in moisture retention without an increase in the size of the saturation zone.

Although this article has made reference to the use of "drainage layers", it was written to debunk the "drainage myth" and to provide evidence that the addition of a drainage layer in the bottom of a container does not improve drainage, but merely increases the height of the saturation zone in any given container/bonsai pot and in turn, increases the water carrying capacity of the substrate rather than decreasing it. In other words, the same pot without a drainage layer will hold less water because of the height of the column of water prior to the impermeable layer (the bottom of the pot). In closing, I hope I was able to shed some light on what transpires below the surface in a bonsai pot.

Bibliography
The myth of drainage layers... - Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott
Physical Characteristics of growing mixes - Dr. Claudio C. Pasian Ohio State University
Physical properties of container media - Dr. James Altland Oregon State University
Factors influencing growth in containers - Donald T. Krizek and Stephen P. Dubik
Evergreen Gardenworks - Brent Walston

Taming the "Hinoki" Cypress 201 (Addendum)

2009-10-10T11:19:00.018-03:00

In part one we discussed how to tame the infamous Hinoki Cypress. Albeit the article discussed the maintenance aspect of Hinokis as bonsai, it did not explain how to "develop" a Hinoki into a bonsai. Because this article is an addendum to the original, it may seem as repetitious. The intent is not to repeat myself but rather expand on what is available on my blog, condensed here, along with the rationale towards achieving a bonsai.

Growing your Hinoki into a Bonsai
Bonsais are created not styled. Styling a bonsai is the final stage of growing or creating a bonsai from raw material whether it be collected from the wild, acquired from a Bonsai Nursery or, acquired from a standard nursery. Styling a tree into a bonsai could be deemed as doing Topiary, which is defined as: clipping trees and shrubs into ornamental shapes. It is also said and professed that you should attempt to create the smallest tree possible from any "given" stock. The following pictures depict the creation from raw stock acquired from a local nursery.

This Hinoki was my third purchase in May '05, I named it "Lazy" because of its laid back disposition. At the time I thought it was something special. I had kept as much foliage as I could, considering they do not back bud on old wood, and tried to maximize the trees height. The results a tall and lanky tree, nothing else.

Some folks think that naming there trees is rather "lame". I tend to agree with them in part but, disagree in general. I could number them which is clearly visible under the "Hinoki Label". However, when talking to the missus, she hasn't a clue of which is which, but does remember names. This is critical when instructions for their care are given during my absence.

During the winter of 05-06 I toyed with the idea of reducing the trees height, being fully cognizant of the trees growth patterns, that I needed to keep as much foliage as possible. In February of '06 I went to work. The trunk was wrapped in raffia, two 5mm wires acted as spines against the trunk and the trunk was once again wrapped in raffia. The tree was wired and this is the result. Height reduction was possible and the tree looked more credible than its humble beginnings.

This shot was taken the fall of '06. The growing season was good and the fullness of the foliage apparent. Unfortunately the result looked more like a landscape juniper than a credible bonsai.

Although we dread winter as it seems because our trees are dormant we are sitting twiddling our thumbs, this is the time to reflect on the upcoming growing season. The tree was potted up towards the end of March '07. The root structure of this tree favours a slanting style and, I decided not to fight it at this point. A suitable rock I had available was placed on the left. This rock had a depression that fit nicely against the trunk and I believe helped the visual weight.

This rendition is what I thought would be the tree's future. The canopy still needs to fill out as well as refined wiring and foreshortening. Work also needs to commence on the deadwood.

After 4 years or development it is now time to start defining this bonsai. It is spring in Nova Scotia, the tree is nice and healthy and so today Lazy will be getting her new and final pot.

The final front... I could not get the tree exactly situated as I wanted it in the pot. The initial styling for the future design commenced in the summer of '08, where unnecessary branching was removed and the the branches wired/repositioned.

The tree after final styling this summer '09. I have a penchant for "penjing" This tree has the lines to accomplish where I want to go. I figure another 3-5 years and this tree will finally come into his own. Huuuuum, that will make it about 10 years. Yup that is about right, and it will only continue to get better.

... on the other hand, this tree as previously discussed was styled from acquisition. This could be construed as "topiary" and, it is. This tree is far from being where it needs to go but, does show that with proper selection of material, and the species, one can achieve a bonsai sihouette in a short amount of time.

How to get there

Notice that branch extending past the outline of the tree? That is the old apex. Also notice the visible branch under the aforementioned one, see the curve and movement? The article by Harry Harrington foreshortening explains it rather well. This technique is largely used in the development of foliage close to the trunk on Hinokis. Hinokis as bonsai cannot be created without the application of this technique coupled with judicious pruning.

It can be clearly seen that the old apex is too long for the outline of the tree, it is kept at this time to develop branching from the the existing foliage. As a new branchlet is fanned out flat, it will fill a void and allow subsequent removal of said branch/former apex.

In this original design, the old apex could be utilized quite well although against the rules and conventions. With time the foliage could be repositioned to hide the bare branching etc... In this vision the apex still needed to be brought down and developed. It can be readily seen in the picture where the future apex is coming from. The second pad on the left requires to be brought forward and down filling the negative space we see now. The small pad developing to its right brought down to fill that void etc... The large void filled by the development of the new apex. Over the years the tree could be defined further and make a respectable bonsai. The next picture shows what I contemplated and saw the summer of '08.

I always liked the trunk movement from this angle and it is an angle in which I was recommended to pursue, which as you know I did... (Pic circa '07)

The tree was refined the summer of '08. This is a picture of the tree prior to repotting the spring of '09. The fluid movement of the trunk and branches are commensurate with the Chinese "penjing style", and hence why I changed direction with this tree. This practice is not uncommon in bonsai and is pretty much the norm. It is making a tree better as it develops, not unlike a child who changes his mind on what he/she wants to be when they grow up. All that is important is that the appropriate classes were taken to achioeve the end or, in our case, branching.

The second branch on the right (third foliage pad going up) is what remains of the old apex. The tree has filled out well this summer and several branches have been wired and repositioned. The tree looks nothing like this picture. Next spring the wire will be removed and the tree allowed to grow unhindered for '10. The following spring the tree will be re-potted utilizing the new chosen front.

Where do branches come from?
From the existing foliage you silly goose.

If you take any branchlet and fan out the foliage, what you see is a branch with hundreds of tiny leaves for the lack of a better word. Each one of those in turn has the capacity to become a branchlet and subsequently a branch with thousands of leaves.

Developing branches
Outside of "in arch grafting" what you have is what you have. In arch grafting of Hinokis has shown limited success (so I am told). Therefore you need to develop your own branches. But before you can do this, you need to establish well ahead in time where you want to go with this tree, or better yet, what the tree has conveyed to you, which is the better choice of the two. Once that has been established, you can now select, prune and develop your branching.

The branch that is on the tree as we speak, attached to the trunk is known as a primary branch. The foliage that emerges from that branch (referred to in this article as a branchlet) is your secondary branching. The foliage from these branchlets are your tertiary branching which will develop quaternary branches and so on and so forth.

This photo explains the aforementioned readily. As each fan is separated from the foliage whorls, the sub-branching is readily seen. As these fans are spread out they occupy a lot of space. Let's take the top right hand branch for example. The two branchlets emanating at the top are secondary branches. The next branch along the primary branch points downward (for now, so does the other branchlets). Secondary branch development on the primary will be: the fisrt; and third branch from the primary. The second branch is pruned off. For all intent and purpose the remainder of the branch can be pruned off at this time. However it is not desirable to do so because of design considerations. But I believe you can understand my direction from my comments. The two selected branches will be part of the future tree, everything else is only there to maintain the tree healthy.

As these branchlets grow into branches the procedure is repeated. That is another reason why we do not pinch Hinokis but rather judiciously prune them. Furthermore, in order to get branch extension, the foliage must be allowed to grow terminally vice laterally. The lateral growth is maintained via the spreading of the fans, subsequently removing unwanted branching via judicious pruning. This technique goes on and on like the energizer bunny.

Because branches are allowed to grow, they can then be shortened to the next branchlet without affecting the trees design drastically. A proper maintenance schedule will ensure your tree is show worthy every year. During the vegetative season, this is where the tree is allowed to grow unhindered. During this period small adjustments can be made without any drastic effects to the overall composition. If the tree is to be exhibited, then past experience will dictate when to conduct necessary maintenance to ensure the tree is at its peak during exhibition.

Building a Cold Frame

2009-08-13T15:12:00.014-03:00

Around this time of year, every year the subject of what to do with our prized possessions during the winter surfaces. As in every year, we go about explaining how it is done. Several methods are used, probably the method of choice if one has the space is to build a cold frame.

For some unknown reason, after extensive research I have come to find out that a cold frame should measure 6 x 3 x 3 feet deep. They don't explain why but do say if more space is needed, then build a second one. The object of this article is not to discuss the validity of found arguments, but rather how to build a cold frame. The hole was dug out to a depth of 1 1/2 feet, 4 inches of 3/8 - 1/2" gravel was placed in the bottom of the hole and, then the pre-assembled box was lowered into the hole.

The entire cold frame is built with "below grade" pressure treated lumber. The frame is made of 2x4s whilst the siding is 5/4 1x6". The box was entirely assembled on the ground near the hole, as once assembled it is fairly heavy.

The entire box was insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam cut to size to fit between uprights.

1/4 inch galvanized mesh was added to the interior, to prevent rodents from entry into the cold frame. With the (insulated frame) upside down, wire mesh was added to the bottom, overlapping the exterior by 2 inches and stapled into place. Once the bottom completed, the cold frame was once again turned right side up and the walls where then screened (notice the overlapping conducted at the corners).

As seen the trees are mulched in to the first branch of every tree.

How to lay your trees in the cold frame
Prior to laying your trees to rest for their winter slumber, it is important to water each and every tree.

A layer of mulch is added to the bottom (an inch or so). Then the trees are added with the tallest ones towards the rear etc... the trees are mulched in pots and all up to their first branch. Then the mulch is given a good soaking. A piece of landscaping fabric is added to the inside of the cover. This I found out was important during my first winter as several trees woke up from their slumber rather early. e.g. early to mid February. In subsequent years with the cloth added my trees are waking up end February to mid March.

Winter maintenance
Do you drink when your sleeping? Neither will your trees or minimally at best. What I do when we get snow, I periodically fill the cold frame with snow, just like mother nature would and the trees are happy. As long as the mulch appears damp, your trees are fine. You can check the soil bu removing mulch and although the surface of the mulch might be dry, under the top layer the mulch and soil are quite damp, all is fine.

When spring come along watering the trees becomes paramount. The sign that the trees are ready to drink once again is when they start to bud. At this stage I remove the top layer of mulch and water my trees as required. This is also the time to remove the landscaping fabric from the lid and to leave the cold frame lid cracked a inch or so.

Note: For sake of clarity, the cold frame bottom is made out of galvanized mesh only.

Supersize me

2009-07-04T20:34:00.017-03:00

"Would you like fries with that?" (Addendum)

I was recently informed that Persiano's feeding regimen included a key ingredient (Roots2), which was extremely hard to come by and, definitely not available in Canada. This key ingredient if omitted would pretty much nullify any superfeeding that took place. Perhaps nullify is too strong a word in this context but, a definite reduction in efficiency would transpire.

Why was this key ingredient so important?

Al Keppler wrote:
The whole secret to the super-feeding regimen was not the amount of fertilizer that was used. It was the Roots 2 and the Roots 2 liquid with iron.

Roots 2 is not manufactured anymore. Roots 2 was a humas enriched fertilizer like Gro Power that I have been useing for 4 years now. Roots 2 was 10 percent humic acid and Gro Power is 14 percent humic acid. A superfeeding regimen is not super-feeding without the addition of humic acid to deliver to the roots all that is being offered to the plant to utilize. Organic fertilizers take massive amounts of bacteria to break down organics into usable compounds. Humic acid has been shown to build bacteria quickly to break down fertilizer compound as well as build mycorrhizae quickly.

Free flowing bonsai soils like we use now have poor CEC's like Akadama. Most clay products have poor CEC. The addtion of the humic acid changes the polarity of the soil components to attract and capture the fertilizer ions and make them available to the plant. Without the addition of humic acid or a fertilizer enriched with humic acid like Roots 2 or Gro Power the fertilizer will wash straight through. It is impossible to super-feed using Michael Persiano's formula with out the addition of the humic based fertilizer.

Ironically, the issue of Bonsai Today ( issue 46 )that introduced the world to Michael's super-feeding plan failed to mention that Roots 2 was a product that contained humic acid. For many years I am sure that many people made fertilizer cakes with the formula ommitting the Roots 2 due to availability or cost. Had there been more of a focus on what actually was making the whole thing work could have changed bonsai as we know it 12 years ago.

Roots2 contained humates, the short version "compost". Gardeners didn't call this organic decomposition black gold for nothing. It is hard to tell outside of the scientific community if folks really knew what were the active ingredients of this precious commodity, but the need didn't really exist then. In those days all that really mattered is that it worked, gardeners and farmers used it, and it was passed down from generation to generation.

I am not going to go into a dissertation on humates or the two main active ingredients: humic and fluvic acids. A quick Internet search will provide you with easy explanations to scientific data. Suffice to say that there is a wealth of information out there that need not be repeated here.

The gist of this article is to serve as an addendum to my article on fertilizers. As discussed therein, we have changed our substrate in recent years towards an almost inorganic mix. Without the addition or very little organics the natural decomposition of organic matter is non existent in totally inert soils to negligible in partially organic substrate.

As explained, because of the shift to extremely fast draining inorganic soils, the feeding rate of our possessions had to increase exponentially if we were to allow our trees to truly prosper. Michael created a "super-feeding program" to compensate for this. He either new and omitted to mention the active ingredients of Roots2 or was a complete oversight on his part.

So the short of it: Humic and Fluvic acid form an integral part of the bacterial process in soil and in doing so decomposes fertilizers to active components that can readily be ingested by plants/trees. In other words feeding at greater efficiency and rates. Not only does it act favourably with fertilizers, it increases the growth of beneficial mychorrhizea as well.

I have since started to use Humic acid as a monthly addition to my current feeding regimen for all my trees.

As I could not find a source for Roots2 liquid and Roots2 liquid with iron, I was using liquid seaweed and seaweed with iron where called for in the charts. Now each time Persiano's charts call for Roots2 X, I simply use Humic acid and where called for iron, add an iron supplement.

It is my belief that this information is relatively knew to gardeners at large. I can say this with all confidence as I searched for sources of Humic acid, everyone responded as if I had 3 heads. When asked what it was for, and I would reply "bonsai", they would state shouldn't you use bonsai fertilizer for that? Yeah right!

However, when talking to the right folks, the results are simply flabbergasting. Humic and fluvic acid are available at any hydroponic stores in your area. Just follow the manufacturer's recommended dosage and you are on your way to healthier more prosperous trees.

Taming the "Hinoki" Cypress

2008-01-22T18:31:00.018-04:00

Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis"

The Hinoki cyprees has long been a favourite of mine for bonsai culture. C. Obtusa is the easiest false cypress to keep alive. My first introduction to bonsai was with this species. Because of this tree's unique characteristics, it has taught me one of the hardest fundamentals to grasp in this passion; patience.

Many report great success in growing it, but unfortunately, it seems to be one of the most difficult to keep in proper bonsai form due to the whirling fan pattern of the foliage.

I believe this statement to be rather harsh, if the tree is left to its own device then yes. This is one of my favourite trees for many reasons. It lends itself well to bonsai culture and a coniferous silhouette can be easily achieved in a reasonable amount of time.

The major styling challenge for false cypress is the fatal combination of rapid growth, die-back from lack of light, and refusal to bud on old wood. If Chamaecyparis isn't pruned constantly, inside and lower branches will die and never grow back, making bonsai maintenence a headache. The tree is best shaped through constant pinching of new foliage - never use scissors to prune as foliage browns where cut. Hinoki cypress also tends to form awkward whorls of foliage if not properly pruned.

After reading that, who in their right mind would take up this challenge? Hopefully with this article I will be able to share my experience in growing and caring for the species and, in doing so remove the stigma surrounding this wonderful underutilized tree.

Selection
Although there are many cultivars, not all Chaemaecyparis Obtusa are suitable for bonsai culture, I will only discuss the ones I have had success and experience with. A more comprehensive list can be found at the end of this care sheet. In my opinion the best species to bonsai are the "nanas". This is a dwarf cultivar but lends itself well to pot culture. Although the growth rate is only 1 or 2 inches per year, when compared to 10-12 inches for the non-dwarf cultivars, this characteristic is highly desirable, and manageable.

I have raised the following species: Chamecyparis Obtusa "Templehoff", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Gracilis", Chamecyparis Obtusa "Aurea", and Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis" and Chamecyparis Obtusa "Kosteri". The best and my favourite for bonsai is: Chamecyparis Obtusa "Nana Gracilis". It has the easiest foliage to tame, and this is what this article is all about.

As discussed, Hinokis will not back bud on old wood. Although they will bud on "green wood" as soon as the green turns to bark, then the show is over. What does this mean to you? Well it means that during plant selection you will need to be very critical.

The three things we look for in selecting suitable material is: trunk; branch placement; and nebari. Although nebari is an important criteria, I do not base my selection on this criteria alone. Hinokis take extremely well to ground layering, and will grow new roots in a growing season. The tree can be severed after two. This blog entry describes the process and results nicely.

The most important criteria after trunk diameter/movement etc... is, branch placement and foliage. The only way to get a branch where you want/need it, is to have it there. The only grafting method that has demonstrated success in varying degrees is "in arch grafting". So if it isn't there, it won't be in the future for all intent and purpose.

Hinokis do grow in a compact fashion so, a good selection of branches are readily available. One must be able to envision any given tree and be capable of taking this raw stock to the next level. Inner foliage is one of the most important criteria in tree selection when dealing with Hinokis. I would select a tree with good inner foliage characteristics in a heart beat over one that may have all the branches in the right place, or has excellent trunk movement, not that the latter two criteria are insignificant, but IMO inner foliage is essential to future possibilities, and should be protected at all costs.

The tree is home
You have selected a suitable candidate and it is now in your yard. Most feel the urge to take this stock and turn into a Bonsai in the first session, don't.

The first thing that needs doing is to bare root the tree (I use a garden hose and a chopstick) to gently comb out the roots and rid the tree of all the original old soil and place it in a good bonsai substrate. Allot of enthusiast do not endorse this practice, but many of the better learnt do, the reason is simple. You need to be able to control its watering and feeding regimen. Placing a tree in any container with a mixture of soils is a method that leads to disaster, if the old soil is not removed.

The rationale is as follows: The root ball is sitting in old soil; this soil is often a combination of soil and compaction of roots; this compaction is greater just below the trunk and surrounding roots; this compaction will only get worst over time; it is this compaction that will remain wet when the remainder of the pot is filled with a free draining soil; and the latter will in most instances lead to root rot and subsequently a dead tree.

As mentioned all my trees are bare rooted and re-potted in my substrate. A caveat, my substrate contains traces of Myke (for trees and shrubs) which is a Mycorhizae substitute that inoculates the pot. We have heard that this beneficial fungus is normally found with pines, many will inoculate other trees with this fungus. The downside, this only happens when you can collect it when re-potting a pine or other conifers where it is present. My alternative is a commercial product that is available at any time, more important, it works.

After the tree has been re-potted (the only root work I do is remove the tap root if still present), it is thoroughly watered and fed a dose of 10-52-10 at half strength. This is also available as "transplant fertilizer", of which you will pay a premium price for. I buy it by the tub because it is an integral part of my feeding regimen. This initial dose is followed up two weeks later with a dose at full strength. The tree during this period is placed in an area of dappled sunlight. Once the tree has shown signs of recuperation and is actively growing, it gets placed on a regular feed schedule, and out in full sun it goes.

I do not purchase trees out of season. I try to acquire new material before the end of June, for my climate. If I acquire material past this time line, it remains in the pot until the following spring. No work is being conducted on the tree until then, with the exception of removing branches I know I will not need, to allow light to the inner foliage.

So the tree has recovered from its trip into your backyard. During this time frame you have hopefully studied the tree and have a vision of where you wish to take it. All unnecessary branches are removed and the tree left to recover until the following year.

Wiring
Wiring the tree should never be attempted within three months of re-potting. The care sheet says so, and I had forgotten this information and subsequently lost my very first tree. I had done both at the same time is the past (in the spring), with great success. Unfortunately the winter of 06-07 was a funny winter and several Canadians lost many trees. So the combination of a funny winter along with re-potting and wiring at the same time, led to the tree's demise. Having learned this lesson, I will no longer carry out both at the same time anymore. I now wire all my Hinokis in the fall.

The rationale behind this is: the tree will be entering dormancy; its growth will be slow to non-existent; the wire can stay on the tree longer, giving it a chance to set; Hinokis are extremely flexible and require many applications before a certain branch has set permanently; and by wiring in the fall it does not interfere with spring re-potting.

Pruning

If Hinokis are left unattended for any length of time, foliage will naturally re-establish their normal growth patterns. As can be seen from this photograph, this type of foliage is not suitable for bonsai as it puts on an unkept appearance, and often the foliage mass is deemed too heavy for the tree's proportions. Appearances aside as the foliage grows from the centres, creating whorls, all foliage below in the shadows of the top layers receive insufficient light and will die off.

On the other hand the foliage on this tree does indeed show signs of maintenance. Although it is still somewhat crowded, it is manageable for a season or two.

The encircled area of this picture depicts what a foliage fan should look like after it has been thinned through pruning. Although pinching is a technique for many trees and will induce back budding, in my experience is is not necessary unless one wishes to redistribute the energy to lower branches, then yes terminal shoots are pinched back.

There are two different types of pruning: hard pruning (removal on branches); and maintenance pruning which is the removal of "branchlets". It is highly recommended to prune on alternate re-potting seasons. I am a firm believer in doing top work one year, and bottom work the following year.

Pruning can be carried out any time during the active growing season right up until mid-August. I recommend hard pruning during the main growth period (as the tree can repair itself more readily) whilst conducting maintenance pruning in early spring at the first signs of growth.

Maintenance pruning is conducted to thin out and tame the fan whorls. One needs to be fairly gentle as these fans are quite delicate. Because of the density of the fans, it is next to impossible to pinch out unwanted growth without damaging the fan/pad. For this I use a pair of good quality pointed scissors, not unlike the ones you use to clip nose hairs. It has been said that using scissors will brown the areas where cut. In my experience with Hinokis, this is not an issue, and it is far safer than trying to pinch. Furthermore, pinching normally refers to the foliage tips, in which case you would indeed pinch. The aforementioned pruning takes place at the base of "branchlets" and no ill effects will come from this practice. Take a look at a foliage whorl and you immediately see what I mean.

The approach
Pruning Hinokis is not much different than thinning out any other branch. What you aim for is alternate foliage pads along the branches. This may seem simple and in some ways it is, but it is anything but. Future styling consideration need to taken into account e.g where will a bend be? It is not practical to remove a fan in favour for another if the chosen one will be on the inside of a curve in a later design, which will cause the removal of two whorls. Remember foliage on Hinokis are at a premium. Didn't I say Hinokis would teach you wisdom and patience?

Because of Hinokis uniqueness (die back of internal foliage), foreshortening of the branches will need to/more likely to take place. The selected fans are gently cupped in the hand using the index and major finger to hold the fan whilst the thumb spreads out the fan. This gives you an indication of the space this fan will occupy after wiring in fall.

Each fan is then selectively pruned with scissors just like any other branch. Each fan is a series of miniature fans all growing from one another. In turn each one of these needs to be thinned out. It is not uncommon to spend 4-10 hours pruning a tree.

This picture depicts a more or less properly pruned tree, the yellow area gives a representation of what a fan should look like after maintenance pruning was carried out.

Active growth period
During this period the tips of the fans can be pinched out to redistribute the tree energy to selected areas. Hinokis like all apically dominant trees need the strong and medium areas constantly pinched back to promote growth in weaker areas.

During this time frame wired branches can be repositioned slightly. I rotate my trees weekly so they receive an even distribution of light.

Pruning versus Pinching
Is there a difference? Well yes there is. Constantly pinching Hinokis will soon render a branch without foliage. You might say how is this possible? Well we know Hinokis do not back bud on old wood. Therefore no new growth will take place or extend past the "pinch" so to speak. How is this possible you might ask again? Well you removed all "terminal" growth in favour of lateral growth. This in turn develops "poodle like" pads of foilage versus branches with foliage perse. Continued pinching results in tufts of foliage on the end of branches versus creating branches, which in turn come from "new foliage", in our case fan whorls. Below is an excerpt of an old discussion that took place.

Boon's approach is to treat the foliage areas more like the ramification of deciduous foliage areas. That is, the deliberate structuring of secondary and tertiary branches and twigs all the way out to the final leaf. Have you ever seen a well ramified Trident maple? They are breath taking. Even when in foliage you can see the entire structure of the foliage area. It seems an almost endless forking of tiny branches finishing in a flurry of minuscule leaves. In junipers you accomplish this not by pinching, but by deliberately selecting each green shoot using sharp fine shears, either keeping or removing the shoot by cutting it off at its base. No pinching except perhaps in the scaffolding stage where you are just selecting places for secondary branching, and browning isn't an issue because the tree isn't ready to show anyhow.

Now this may seem like a daunting task, and in fact it is. Jim (Jim Gremel) said they spent something like nineteen hours pruning three of his trees. You start at the primary branching and follow out to the secondary branching where you begin to encounter green shoots. Most of the time the small green shoots in the axils of the branches is removed to maintain the fork. As you get to green shoots and wood that has just lignified (browned), you begin the process, left-right-left-right- up, left-right-left-right-up, or whatever pattern works for you. This is repeated for every foliage of the tree. Rather than indiscriminate pinching that is mindless and leaves a cushion, you get a structure that you can see through that is light, delicate, and probably most important- maintainable. Foliage area extension can be controlled by simply pruning harder to head back to secondary branching and thus shortening the branch with almost no adverse consequences. Trees treated this way can be shown every year.

Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Kosteri"
Although it can be used for bonsai culture, I find the growth pattern too coarse and would defintely present a challenge, when compared to the "Nana Gracilis"

Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Aurea"
Although this specimen shows a coarse structure, it does possess the same attributes as the "Nana Gracilis". However, it is unique in its growth pattern as all new growth is a beautiful golden colour whilst old growth is a dark green. To many, varigation in bonsai is taboo and I support this, but this tree makes a fantastic addition to any landscape, where the tree is maintained using Japanese Gardening Techniques.

Caution!
Chamaecyparis Obtusa "Gracilis" is not "Nana Gracilis". The "Gracilis" will grow much larger than the "Nana" but more important is how the foliage grows on a "Gracilis" which is straight up and down when compare to the whorls of the "Nana". This is not a major draw back but needs to be considered as the majority of the branchlets will need to be wired in a horizontal plane. Furthermore, do not remove any foliage growing beneath the branchlets. Once it has been turned to a horizontal position, it now becomes a side. It goes without saying that any branch growing beneath a main branch is indeed removed.

TIP!
Hinokis benefit of a dose of Epson Salts every month or so, @ a rate of 1 tbs to one gallon of water. It turns the foliage a vibrant dark green and at times (dependent on cultivars) will bring out blueish hues.

Bibliography
Bonsai Clubs International Care sheet
Photos courtesy of Iseli Nurseries

Photographing Bonsai

2008-01-21T15:10:00.002-04:00

Carl Bergstrom wrote an article some time ago on how to photograph bonsai and kusamono (accent plants). Although this article may be dated, it contains nonetheless some very good information. Carl goes into great detail on how one can achieve great photography, even with a P&S camera.

I was fortunate enough this year to receive an update to my old Fuji A201. Santa left a Fuji S700 under the tree for me to find. Digital cameras have come a long way. MY first Fuji was nearly double the price of this camera. As time goes by, DSLRs will further reduce in price and all should be able to afford one. This is great for folks who have a series of quality 35mm lenses. All one need to do is find a camera that the lenses will fit on.

Specifications and Review

Needless to say that the jump from a P&S (point and shoot) was a learning curve, never had owned a manual 35mm is the past. The user manual was all but useless. I found this site while surfing to be extremely useful. It went into the functionality of a camera in greater detail, and hence reducing the height of my learning curve.

In my present setup, I have come to find out that back lighting does not render great shots, regardless of aperture and shutter settings. My indoor photos take place in my den that has a daylight fluorescent overhead, which I supplement with two daylight pig tails at 60 watts each. My backdrop is royal blue velvet.Using "natural light" and flash suppression I am able to capture the depth and true colours of the trees. Using flash just washes the tree. Now what will happen when I take shots outdoors? I guess we will soon find out.

This camera was placed on Santa's list for 4 reasons, in order of importance: powered by AA batteries; had a view finder vice just an LED screen; had an optical zoom and was capable of taking shots in macro mode. I took a shot one night of a text that was laying open on my computer desk from 3 inches away. The shot would have gained me entrance into the CIA.

In closing as digital photography is getting better as time goes by, and gains in consumer popularity, the affordability of digital cameras will undoubtedly continue to improve.

Warren Hill Soil Experiment

2008-01-20T19:35:00.002-04:00

This article was originally written back in May 2006, to document an experiment that I conducted using various substrates.

Background
A recent debate, which took place on several forums with regards to the continued use of “Turface” or any other calcinated clay or similar soil amendments with high Cation Exchange Capacities (CEC) in our substrate, would lock up needed nutrients, leaving an accumulation of unwanted salts, which in turn leads to the poor health and perhaps the eventual demise of our beloved trees.

Aim
In light of these posts, I have decided to conduct my own experiment, to satisfy my own curiosity and is not intended to debate “soil recipes” but rather discuss the merits or discredit some of Mr Hill’s fore drawn conclusions.

The subjects I have chosen for my experiment are: the Cotoneaster Horizontalis var. Rockspray. I have chosen this particular type of tree because it has demonstrated in the past they adapt well to my short growing season and climate here in Nova Scotia. The substrate I used was: my 30/70 mix (bark, turface & grit, 30/35/35), Turface and Chicken Grit (ground granite).

Discussion
At the centre of the debate was the reputation and teachings of renowned Bonsaiist Warren Hill. Mr Hill is a gifted and talented bonsai artist who has spent the better part of his life in the pursuit of better bonsai and better bonsai technique. He is a world famous, world-class teacher and educator on this subject who has earned that reputation and international regard by being able to actually do it. One look at any bonsai he has created will immediately make this clear. He worked for the US Department of Agriculture for close to 40 years. During his tenure he had access to the necessary equipment and materials he needed to derive his conclusions.

During his lectures, Mr Hill professes that 80% of our trees either die or never reach their full potential because of unwanted salts in our substrate. Warren’s recipe of choice is: Akadama or similar; Sphagnum Moss; and builders sand or grit. His claim is that Akadama has a lower CEC than the calcinated clays, and albeit water retentive Sphagnum Moss was relatively neutral with regards to initial salt content and the remaining ingredients mentioned nil. He further lectures against the use of any type of Chemical Fertilization and goes on to say that one should only use organic fertilizers, in particular, fish fertilizer. It should be also noted that Mr Hill lived a good portion of his life in Southern California, a place denoted for the high sodium content in the drinking water. What is unusual in my opinion is that in all his lectures he fails to mention the use of distilled water when faced with high sodium content of drinking water in individual locales. Albeit, void of any trace minerals and nutrients, one would think the benefits of using distilled water would outweigh the negatives “as professed” of using drinking water with high initial sodium content?

Another interesting tidbit of discussion took place on the Bonsai Site where: “Grouper52” an MD by profession, challenges Warren’s findings as inconsequential from strictly a scientific point of view. That particular post was thought provoking indeed, from a strictly clinical point of view in my opinion.

Probably the most heated debate on the subject can be found at Bonsai Talk The thread was started as on the previously mentioned site by the same hobbyist whom had recently returned from a lecture given by Mr Hill. This hobbyist only recently commenced his journey into our beloved art. This particular thread contains a good explanation on CECs, the interlocutor, “Forest Reef”. Of note, “Forrest Reef” is a student of Mr Warren Hill. Nonetheless, her discussion is pretty candid and contains several links to the topic in question. I have added the links to these articles at the end synopsis for your interest and viewing pleasure.

Experiment preparation
As previously mention I purchased 3 cotoneasters for this experiment. I chose 3 relatively similar trees with regards to health and size, keeping in mind that albeit an experiment, I wanted to be able to continue developing and enjoying the trees in the future. I did pay attention to the nebari and trunk development of the purchased subjects. Because of the short growing season in Nova Scotia, I purchased 3 pond baskets for growing containers. My rationale was to provide my trees with the most advantages I possibly could with limited growing resources. The free flow of oxygen and fast drainage of pond baskets, would lead to phenomenal root production and eventually top growth.

The Subjects
From top to bottom: “My soil”, Turface and Grit. Albeit still in their nursery containers, for the purpose of this article, pictures of the subjects (unless stated otherwise) will always take place in this order.

My soil

Turface

Grit

… after washing the roots.

My soil

Turface

Grit

The entire “old soil” was removed from the root ball using a garden hose. The roots were healthy and had many fine feeders. The taproot was removed from all 3 subjects and all received a minor root trim. In doing so I tried to keep the root ball roughly the same size for all three trees.

… ready for planting

My soil

Turface

Grit

The trees were planted in pond baskets in the following formulation from top to bottom: My 30/70 mix composed of 30% bark, 35% turface and 35% grit by (volume); 100% turface; and 100% grit.

… after original styling

My soil

Turface

Grit

Once the trees were transplanted, it became necessary to wire the trees to the baskets. The later was accomplished using loose guide wires vice securing the root ball to the baskets. Each tree received its initial trim. I tried to keep the trimming as equal as I possibly could given the state of branching and foliage. Once complete, each tree was watered thoroughly, allowed to soak for 15 minutes, watered again, again allowed to soak for 15 minutes and given an initial feeding of 10-52-10 “transplant fertilizer” at half strength to assist in alleviating transplant shock. All trees were placed in partial sun for 1 week. When signs of growth appeared they were in turn placed in full sun. Their watering requirements varied in the beginning, especially the one with the 30% organic mix. It received water every two to three days depending on the temperature, whilst the remaining two where watered once a day and twice a day respectively, on really hot days, the “grit tree” was watered 3 times a day.

Transplanting took place on the 5th of May. On the 19th of May they received another dose of 10-52-10 this time at full strength. I have been doing this with all my trees and have enjoyed great success since beginning the practice.

Beginning with the first week in June, they were placed on my Feeding Program for flowering/fruiting trees. The following table depicts their feeding regimen:

Progression
The trees are receiving weekly maintenance pruning e.g. allowed to grow 6 to 8 leaves and trimming back to just two. The tree growing in “my soil” receives a monthly flush, my rationale for the latter is that the organic components of the mix will “hold on” to the feed relatively speaking, compared to the other two. Although extremely early in the experiment as of the 12th of June, the tree that has demonstrated the most growth has been the one in the organic mixed followed by the tree in 100% grit. I will be following the progression carefully to see what might have led to this spurt if anything.

A year later…
Today, a year and a week later I decided to see what transpired over the past year. The tree that prospered the most was the tree planted in my soil recipe, followed by the tree in straight Turface, whilst the “pure grit” tree picked up the rear.

When I removed the trees from their individual baskets, the soil fell away from the root ball of the “grit tree” whilst a good portion of soil remained in the other two and had to be washed away. The roots were able to attach themselves to the medium so to speak. Although the grit tree’s bottom development was not as prolific as the others, I don’t believe it to be a determining factor in this instance. My observations lead me to believe that pure grit makes for a lousy anchoring medium when compared to the other two. As proper anchoring is an important factor in root development, I cannot endorse the practice of using pure grit as a growing medium without adequate support. All the trees had a healthy root system with no sign of rot of any kind. The only difference noticed was the root mass of the trees.

My soil

Turface

Grit

Although the top growth is really apparent in these photos, the real growth occurred in the baskets.

My soil

Turface

Grit

...and

My soil

Turface

Grit

Conclusion
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, in this instance the proof is in the pudding. As previously mentioned all trees received the same treatment during last years growing season. They were fed at the same rate; the only differential treatment they received was individual watering, because of different evaporation rates and moisture retention. As previously mentioned, the tree growing in the organic medium received a monthly flush, the latter was performed to level the playing field so to speak as the CEC of the organic mix was/is greater than the CEC of the inorganic mediums.

What can be drawn from this experiment? I believe a year is insufficient time to really evaluate the retention of unwanted salts in the mediums, as Warren would claim. I further believe that individual climates play a large role in growing bonsai. Warren is from California where the sodium content in their water is prevalent and evaporation rates higher. I believe this is an important factor that was overlooked and is not mentioned in any of his debates. Although, Warren’s test results may be valid, I dare venture to say that I further believe the results would have been different if these test/experiments were conducted elsewhere in the country, in order to draw precise and valid conclusions. Warren’s claim that the growth in a medium with low CECs exceeds that of any other soil composition, in this particular case the evidence speaks for itself.

Although the tree potted in pure grit survived the season, it did not flourish perse. I believe the tree in this instance may well have been under nourished due to the low CEC of the grit when compared to the other two mediums, with the organic medium having the greatest CEC of them all. An interesting observation was the prolific bottom growth of the tree that was planted in straight Turface; it demonstrated similar bottom growth as the organic tree and was only slightly behind. The top growth although better than the grit tree was not as prolific as the organic one. This is amazing as the basis of this debate was that Turface or any other calcinated clay product was bad for your trees.

Will the health of trees planted in a calcinated clay environment decrease over time? Perhaps but, one cannot deny the growth compared to the “grit tree”. It is my opinion that the accumulation of unwanted salts is a moot point if the tree is properly fed and watered, with periodic flushing and re-potting. Another point to note; was Warren over feeding his trees? The latter would only exacerbate the accumulation of salts in his medium, considering the original high sodium content of their water.

The reason for my experiment was to satisfy my own curiosity with regards to growth rates when potted in differing mediums. As previously mentioned, it was too early to tell if the accumulation of unwanted salts would play a factor in the trees future. When comparing growth; we have to concede that a tree planted in a free draining, well oxygenated soil, suitable for ones climactic conditions, will indeed prosper. I further believe that the reason the tree planted in the organic medium benefited of the extra Nitrogen produced by the slow decomposition of organic matter. Although the decomposition may have been low, it is nonetheless a factor that should not be overlooked when compared with the Turface tree.

In my opinion it is indeed possible to mimic the growing conditions across growing mediums by altering the feed rates and fertilizer values used, the latter is impractical in my opinion. Testing soil for the presence of specific nutrients and minerals is best suited for laboratories than someone’s bonsai garden. I further believe the average enthusiast has better things to do in the daily maintenance of his trees vice analyzing soil composition and thus adjusting feed/component rates

In closing I believe the low or lack of CEC of pure grit compared to other mediums leads to under-developed and under-nourished trees. Furthermore, pure grit makes for a lousy anchoring medium. Although this experiment did not refute Warren’s findings, I believe the results of this little experiment to be of some value. Everyone is in search of the “magic” soil recipe. It has been said time and time again that a good recipe is one that works for you, under your growing conditions, in your region. Therefore, I believe that a good growing medium must be relatively cheap, components readily available and provide a free flowing, oxygenated environment for your trees to truly prosper. I believe that a well-balanced feeding schedule with periodic top flushing and adequate re-potting intervals will alleviate if not eliminate unwanted salt accumulation. I further believe that a container of the proper size for the trees growing characteristics, not to mention growing climate is of paramount importance vice the medium it is planted in, in order to maintain healthy prosperous trees.

Disclaimer
The aforementioned experiment was not conducted under scientific conditions, to do so as discussed, would take years. For the experiment of unwanted salt accumulation to be credible in my opinion; it would need to be carried out in varying parts of the country, where trees are potted up in exact mediums, watered using distilled water of known quality and specific ppm, fed the same amount and brand of fertilizer, and potted in suitable containers of the same size. The aforementioned discussion is merely my observation of growth rates in varying mediums.

Links
Soil in a container - Electrical conductivity
Warren's Site
Bonsai Talk
Bonsai Site

Would you like fries with that...

2008-01-19T20:47:00.010-04:00

Updated 29 January 2010!

Fertilizing! Although numerous articles are written on the subject, I find myself with the urge of sharing my experiences and understanding on the subject with fellow enthusiasts. The material written on the subject seems sparse or vague, leaving the enthusiast with more unanswered questions than anything. A favourite saying in the bonsai community is to: “Fertilize weakly, weekly”. There is no doubt this practice will provide dividends, and it is safe to do so. On the other hand during the developmental stages, many will promote feeding aggressively, more importantly, feeding with the appropriate fertilizers at the appropriate time.

I guess the proponents in each camp have their reasons, but I believe perhaps some of these practices were created or established through misinformation and/or myths, or a combination of both. Many references contain a section on fertilizers, but few engage or recommend a feeding regimen. I believe the latter is probably due to geographical locations and product availability. I further believe these references air on the side of caution, which in itself is not a bad thing. With so much information out there on the net let alone in reference material, how do we separate the “chaff from the wheat”? I believe the biggest culprit for the obscurity of this subject may have surfaced during the exponential growth of growing medium components, whilst feeding regimens remained pretty much unchanged in the last decade or so. In the last decade, we have seen growing medium composition make leaps and bounds, going from almost totally organic towards totally inert material. What did not transpire during this growth, is a proportional understanding of a feeding regimen for our trees, or better yet a thorough understanding of how feed is important to the vitality of our prized possessions, under our “current” growing conditions.

A proper program of fertilization is important for the cultivation of all types of plants, but is of particular importance when growing bonsai. There are two reasons for this. First, bonsai are grown in containers. This means there is very little space available from which the roots can obtain nutrients. Secondly, the soil mixtures traditionally used for proper bonsai cultivation are made up primarily of drainage materials (sand, rock, haydite, turface, etc.) and do not contain large amounts of organic materials that would hold onto nutrients or decompose and release nutrients into the soil.

It is therefore important to place your bonsai on a regular feeding schedule during the growing season. The plants require nutrients when they begin to grow and push buds in the early spring, and will continue to require feeding throughout the summer and into the fall (although in the fall the type of nutrients you provide will change (see below)).(Randy Clark)

As some of you know I am partial to Persiano’s “Super-feeding Program” for developing pines and conifers. To some this program is labeled as “Super-feeding” whilst others will call this program just common sense. The key to this program and its subsequent maintenance program is an extremely fast draining soil. On the latter, most folks believe their soil to be adequately fast draining, but is it? A fast draining soil is a soil in which water drains out the bottom almost as fast as it is introduced at the surface. A good potting medium is one, which will readily shed unwanted water, but retain sufficient moisture until the tree is watered once again. Some do not easily achieve this delicate balance. I believe the chief component that hinders their progress is the use of too much organic matter in their mediums, or the belief that such a component is needed.

A tree that is properly fed on a regular schedule with all the macro and micro-nutrients does not need an organic component in its potting medium to survive. All the roots need is: oxygen, water and minerals (vitamins for humans), the latter is provided with feed. Although this conversation may seem to be leading or has the appearance of heading towards totally inert growing mediums, it is not the direction I wish to take. The direction I wish to take is the requirement of our trees to get the required nourishment from their growing mediums. Even trees grown in landscapes etc… in the ground, in the earth, may or may not receive sufficient nourishment from their surroundings to sustain health. Hey, fast food restaurants will sustain life but will also lead to ones demise, in short fashion. Having said that, an organic component uses nitrogen as it decomposes, which in turn may rob the tree of this nutrient and subsequently lead to other nutrient deficiencies as well. Although a somewhat necessary component, the extensive use of this component in retaining moisture in the composition vice using a suitable inert component, should be avoided. Collin Lewis wrote, “For added water retention it is best to avoid the temptation to add more organic matter, but to reduce the aggregate particle size of the grit or, replace some of this component with one of the proprietary granular soil conditioners on the market” ((calcinated clays or similar (Turface)).

It is far better to play with the inorganic components of potting mediums vice the organic one. Organics decompose over time, and thus will no longer retain their desired original properties in the soil’s composition. The decomposition of this component will lead to soil collapse over time and limit the free exchange of oxygen between the roots and its surroundings. To further exacerbate this dilemma, the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of organic components exceeds that of any inert moisture-retaining component used in our growing mediums. This large retention can lead to the accumulation of unwanted salts in our mediums, leading to the inability of the root system to take up water and nutrients. Plant cells feed by osmosis, when the accumulation of unwanted salts occurs in the container, the process is reversed. The roots can no longer take up water and nutrients; rather the cells loose their moisture and nutrients to the soil.

I believe the biggest myth that surrounds our chosen hobby is to feed at half strength. It is completely safe to feed your trees in accordance with the manufacturer's recommended dosage. Having said that, if the schedule calls for 10-10-10 and all you have available is 20-20-20, then you would indeed cut the recommended dosage in half. What you wouldn’t and shouldn’t do is to reduce 10-10-10 by half and feed twice as often than the recommended intervals. The other one is to use a balanced fertilizer, in general terms this practice is acceptable and safe to do so, until one has grasped an understanding of what the major components in fertilizers actually do, how and when playing with these ratios will benefit our trees.

I know it has been discussed before, but I believe I need to go over the basic ingredients of fertilizers in providing a better understanding of their use and the role each plays in bonsai culture. The understanding of the basic chemistry will allow us a better understanding of altering ratios of these key components as the growing season progresses right up until dormancy. The nutritive requirement of our trees varies with the seasons, and this is the key area I wish to discuss, understanding the basics will lay a platform for the reasons we may wish to alter these ratios.

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is responsible for shoot development and foliage production, in short, for growth.
Too little nitrogen results in the plants failure to thrive and will have small possibly distorted leaves and a washed out insipid appearance. With no nitrogen at all, a large plant could die within the year. Too much nitrogen by contrast causes rapid growth, with large leaves and plump shoots that are full of water and consequently, are easy to snap.

Phosphorous (P)
Phosphorous is essential for the development and proper functioning of roots. It is commonly used in high concentrations for newly potted stock plants and commercial root crops. Phosphorous also encourages the fattening of woody trunks and branches. It helps establish appropriate conditions for the production of foliage and flower buds. It also enhances the resistance of plant stress and disease. Weak growth and a pale colour may be the result of an oversupply, or even a lack of phosphorous.

Potassium (K)
Potassium is the main ingredient in the production of fruit and flowers. Increasing potassium in the diet of bonsai apples and azaleas which fruit or flower poorly, will greatly improve their performance the next spring. Potassium also helps in hardening off late growth in preparation for winter. Insufficient potassium in non-flowering trees, results in winter die back. A cheap way to add potassium to the soil is to throw a few handfuls of hard wood ash onto the surface.

Now that we refreshed ourselves with the purpose of each component let’s look at the different seasons and how we can better apply each of these components to provide better dividends. In most parts fertilizing starts to late in the season. When reference material calls for resumption of feed in “early spring” this is meant to be March in the Northern Hemisphere. This original feed is like a cup of espresso after a long winter’s nap. It is meant as a quick “pick me upper”. The component ratio of this initial feed is very important.

This initial feed is normally of the following ratio 30-10-10. It is a quick nitrogen boost that is given once in the month of March for flowering & fruiting trees, evergreens, conifers and deciduous trees. It is not given to pines and I will explain later. Depending on the winter this can be carried out any time from mid month on. The exception to this rule is with pines. Pines have a very peculiar growth pattern and do not benefit from this high nitrogen boost. As a matter of fact it is strongly discouraged. With pines low nitrogen feed is recommended in spring whilst high phosphorous feed is recommended in late summer/autumn. This will encourage small needles and prolific back budding. The high phosphor administered this late in the growing season is stored for the lack of a better word and hence, the tree does not require a cup of espresso upon awakening, it is already wired for sound when spring rolls along. To provide pines with high nitrogen feed in spring will reverse what we are trying to accomplish.

This high nitrogen boost is continued during the month of April right up until the first week of May for all trees with the exception of pines and flowering/fruiting trees.

Flowering/fruiting trees receive a balanced fertilizer during the aforementioned time frame, whilst a feed high in phosphorous will prove beneficial during the growing season. The feed schedule is applied right up until the tree is in bloom and discontinued while in bloom. The regimen is resumed once the tree has finished blooming.

For pines slow release "fertilizer cakes" are sufficient in providing the necessary nutrients for health and growth. In order to keep the needle length short and promote back budding, a feed high in phosphorous is chosen during the growth period. There is a direct correlation between top and bottom growth and that is why Michael feeds the roots aggressively during the growing season.

Some proponents will recommend the discontinuation of feed during the summer months (July-August), whilst others continue during this time frame. I am with the latter camp and feed right up until mid-November. Having said that our trees are preparing for dormancy around mid-August and this is where we as enthusiast must assist them into their winter slumber. We no longer feed as aggressively and the component ratios are switched to a low nitrogen high potassium feed, to harden off our trees for winter. Regardless of the species all feed is discontinued from mid-November until the end of February.

My products of choice are produced by Plant Products. They do not endorse me, nor have I any interest on promoting their use. The reason I use these products is because they are a Canadian firm, making their products readily available in Canada. Furthermore, when this article was originally written it was aimed at a Canadian audience.

10-52-10 Known as transplant fertilizer. There are many products sold under that name at exorbitant prices. If you were to check the ingredients in transplant fertilizer, you would come to the conclusion that the ratio is 10-50-10. Because I use this product extensively, I buy it by the tub. Every tree I acquire is bare rooted. I believe as others, the sooner you can get the tree established in the proper growing medium the better. I have yet to have a failure in doing so. What I do, that is perhaps out of the norm to increase my chances of success, is that I remove the soil with a water hose vice combing out the roots. I believe that combing out the roots on nursery-acquired stock is extremely stressful to the tree not to mention the damaged caused to the fine feeder roots in the process, ridding the soil from the roots with water is gentler approach in my opinion. The roots will receive very little in form of work carried out with the exception of removing the taproot should it still be present. The tree is fed with 10-52-10 at half strength, with a repeat dose at full strength 2 weeks later. After 4 weeks, the tree is placed on a normal feeding schedule. The innocuous feed is also carried out during re-potting in spring. In this case because the trees are in good growing medium the hose is not required. Shaking the tree and gently combing the roots is all that is required to rid the tree of old soil.

This particular fertilizer ratio is also part of Persiano’s Feeding regimen as seen in the charts below.

20-20-20 As I could not get my hands on 10-10-10 I use this product at half strength.

15-30-15 “Rose or tomato” fertilizer. This fertilizer is used to feed all my flowering and fruiting trees during the season as specified in the chart below.

15-15-30 “Tomato” fertilizer is the only one I could find as a low nitrogen high potassium fertilizer to use in the fall. This fertilizer is used at 1/3 of the recommended dosage or 5-5-10.

Maxicrop manufactures the following fertilizers. The reason I chose this firm is the availability of their products in order to mimic Persiano’s recommended elements and schedule. A point to note, their fish emulsion is odourless which makes it an ideal candidate for use inside the home. Furthermore, for those who manufacture their own fertilizer cakes, the use of this particular brand of fish emulsion in the composition will not drive you out of the house.

5-1-1 Fish emulsion

0.1-1.0-0.1 Liquefied seaweed and liquefied seaweed with iron. Replaces “Roots Liquid” and “Roots liquid with iron”

0-0-3 “Pro-Tekt” is manufactured by Dyna-Grow. It is a silicon-based solution that supplies high potassium to help plants build stronger cell walls. The stronger cell walls provide a protective barrier against piercing-sucking insects and invading fungi. Applying on a regular basis will minimise or eliminate the need to use pesticides and fungicides. Additional benefits include increased stem strength, and leaf positioning of plants, which improves photosynthesis; increased heat, drought and cold tolerance, plus longer lasting leaves and blooms. Used as a supplement to provide protection against fungal and insect infestations.

Slow release “fertilizer cake” recipe

3 cups “kelp meal”
2 cups “garden lime”
1 cup “bone meal”
1 cup “blood meal”
Full strength 20-30-20 diluted with water (manufacturers recommended dosage)
1 oz fish emulsion per lb of dry ingredients. In this case 4 oz

Mix dry ingredients well. Add liquid and further mix to the consistency of oatmeal. Flour can be used as a binding agent. Place on a flat tray, score to form squares, and set out in the sun to dry. Place in a well-sealed container for future use. The mixture can also be formed into balls if one so desires.

The charts below demonstrate the use and frequency of various fertilizers during the growing season. A point to note, plant product fertilizers do contain 2% chelated iron in their formulation.

I hope I was able to shed some light into this obscure subject. This is the feeding regimen for my outdoor trees and was compiled from various sources. This feeding regimen has been in use for 3 years now and I have personally seen the benefits of such a program. As stated earlier. To some this is super-feeding, to others just a good common sense feeding program.

I was informed that Persiano's feeding regimen included a key ingredient (Roots2), which was extremely hard to come by and, definitely not available in Canada. This key ingredient if omitted would pretty much nullify any super-feeding that took place. Perhaps nullify is too strong a word in this context but, a definite reduction in efficiency would transpire. Complete article

Disclaimer!!
Although it is perfectly safe to dilute fertilizers, doubling the manufacturers recommended dosage should not be carried out. The latter can be compared to many cooking recipes where doubling does not achieve the same result and thus, should be avoided at all cost.

Bibliography:
The italicized print at the beginning of the article is an excerpt from Randy Clarks article at Knowledge of Bonsai.

Bonsai a care Manual: Colin Lewis

On parenting and bonsai

2008-01-19T18:59:00.002-04:00

In the past, several discussions have led me to serious reflection. As enthusiasts what are we missing, or need to acquire in order to really prosper in this fascinating hobby both horticulturally and artistically? The answer is not a simple one, but one that nonetheless can and should be reflected upon.

A question that is better answered by each and every one of us is: What has drawn us to this fascinating, sometime challenging and rewarding hobby? We each have our reasons and beliefs why we practice the art of “Bonsai”. It has been stated many times that “the journey” is a long one, what draws us to it, better yet what inspires us to continue along its torturous, frustrating and often challenging path? Unlike acquiring a degree of some sort, a bonsai education takes a lifetime; the degree is never truly finished nor acquired. The reverend “masters” will openly admit, “There is much to learn, I have refined my skills, but mastered none”.

Raising a bonsai from a cutting or a seed is not unlike raising a child, from the moment of conception we are fascinated with “new life”. The conception part is relatively easy and painless; the developmental stages on the other hand are plagued with uncertainties, frustrations and rewards. As the first newborn arrives home, the uncertainties set in. How do we raise the infant, it’s our first? How do I know what it needs, when it needs it, and what upsets the balance? We trudge through it and low and behold we attend their graduation. In that time frame we have not only educated and nurtured the infant into a functioning adult but have acquired an education ourselves in the process. Raising a child teaches us much; the growing seedling is no different.

We armed ourselves with literature, surrounded ourselves with family, friends and more experienced professionals to aid us on our journey, in seeing this child rise to fruition. Everyone has a different opinion and difficult advice. How do we apply these principles to our chosen craft? The similarities are so alike that it is nearly impossible to distinguished between the two.

Bringing the child home
We take our infant home from the nursery only to find out that the formula the neo-natal unit had the child on is not available or is no longer suitable as he/she has developed an allergic reaction to it. So we quest the market for a suitable substitute to meet its needs and feeding requirements. Finding the right baby formula is not unlike finding the proper soil components so our “younguns” can grow to maturity. Like a child a tree requires moisture and oxygen to live; the latter is provided by a free draining soil along while employing proper watering techniques.

A child will tell us when it needs its bottle; a tree on the other hand will often display its malcontent in a more subtle fashion. When parched a tree's leaves will often droop, indicating not unlike a crying child it requires to be fed, or in this particular case watered. When a tree loses its leaves out of sequence, or they turn yellow, once again it is not unlike a child who is crying because of a bout of colic or having a soiled diaper, it is merely the trees reaction to its living conditions. Feeding a child too much, results in a bellyache, whilst our trees may not get a bellyache, they will demonstrate their discomfort by throwing their leaves. It is their way of telling us, they require immediate attention, as our current course of action is simply not acceptable. Should we persist unknowingly or otherwise with the current course of action, in an act of self-preservation, the tree simply turns itself off. In some cases, many will seed and bloom prior to their demise as a selfless act of preservation in the hope of propagating the species. That’s how “Mother Nature” intended things to be, when human intervention is not a factor in the equation.

Contrary to popular belief a tree is not on intravenous, it only takes up the moisture lost through perspiration, and therefore watering excessively will soon lead to its demise. A child that is fed excessively intravenously will also succumb, drowning in its own fluids. The tree with sodden roots will react similar to a child that requires its bottom to be changed. Imagine how miserable you would feel having wet tootsies for days on end. Wouldn’t you throw a conniption as well? A common affliction of WW I veterans was trench foot disease. The fungus was a direct result of, hours spent for days on end in water-laden trenches. The comparable affliction of our beloved trees would be root rot.

The dirty diaper
A diaper not unlike a bonsai pot, that is full or crap will lead to numerous afflictions. Albeit, the child will not succumb to a “crappy” diaper, it sure can make ones life miserable until dealt with. A tree, not unlike a child, enjoys the luxury and warmth a clean diaper provides, or in the case of the former, free draining soil, free of crap. As you wouldn’t think of covering baby’s bottom with heavy cotton, the same consideration should be given on soil components selected. How is the latter accomplished? Component size is of great importance when mixing our substrate. Let’s take a look at what the substrate does for our trees. First and foremost it anchors a tree to the pot, until such time as the roots have colonized the pot and have attached themselves to the sides and bottom of the pot. Until this colonization transpires, anchoring the tree to the pot with wire is the method most widely used. Secondly, it must provide an avenue for retaining moisture in order to replenish fluid loss during the day. Thirdly, it must provide a medium for the tree to find its nourishment on demand and, last but not least must provide the free exchange of oxygen for the lungs, uh, I mean roots.

The first component is any form of impermeable aggregate available in your area. Natural aquarium gravel could be a source, as well as flushed “crusher dust” or coarse sand for that matter. The component of choice is crushed granite, which is sold in feed stores as “chicken grit”. One must be careful when using this product, as it is often found that “crushed oyster shells” are also sold as chicken grit. Whilst the former is a great aggregate, the latter is a pour choice due to its high sodium content. The component size should be anywhere from 1/8” – 3/16”. This size has been found suitable for the majority of trees grown as bonsai, although 1/16” components would be more suitable for “mame” bonsai.

The second component provides the moisture retention capacity of the soil. This component is usually any form of permeable material like lava rock, haydite, calcinated clays etc… although “perlite” may possess attributes desirable in bonsai substrate, its greatest disadvantages is it is unsightly and floats to the surface, in doing so, will often lead to soil collapse For these reasons perlite is seldom found as a component of any decent substrate. Although some folks will/may add an organic component to the substrate, this is the main “feeding” component of bonsai substrate. It has the capacity to store up to 50 times its weight with water and nutrients. Therefore, it has the ability to both water and feed the tree on demand, whilst maintaining the preferable moisture content of the substrate.

The third component found in our substrate is any type of organic component of the aforementioned sizes that although decomposes readily, will not cause soil collapse during the decomposition process until subsequent repotting. Fir bark has been found suitable for this means. Another component widely used, and possessing similar properties is known as “ pine soil conditioner”. Although, this component is readily available at most garden centers in the US, I have failed to source an outlet here in Canada. Of late, I have started using Sequoia bark (available from the Orchid Society in my area) it size ranges from 1/4 - 3/8”. A quick trip in the blender renders my preferred component size, the same can be said of Schultz “Orchid Mix” that is readily available throughout Canada. Although the particles are much larger than preferred, once again a quick trip in the blender will solve this inconvenience. Another added benefit of using “Orchid mix” is the addition of horticultural charcoal in the mix, which has proven over the years to be extremely beneficial to plants and trees.

The most important factor when developing and mixing bonsai substrate is component size. We use particulate matter of a certain size to provide a free flowing area for both water to drain and oxygenate the roots in the process. Components of varying sizes would lead to closing of the air spaces we have so diligently provided our trees with during the triple sifting process required to generate a proper bonsai substrate.

Peat moss or peat as it is often referred to, has absolutely no place in bonsai substrate and should never be used. Learned enthusiasts have long drawn the conclusion about its use as unfavorable. Why you might ask? It retains too much moisture! The second reason is its relative inability to regain said moisture once dry. What one will often see when watering the tree is, that although the tree has been thoroughly watered, the soil is still dry. The water has found the pass of least resistance and exited the pot. If one were to sift just below the surface one would be amazed indeed to find dry soil. Probably the chief disadvantage of using peat is the compaction of the air spaces between the components, the latter leads to inadequate oxygen exchange in the substrate.

The ill-fitting diaper
We have discussed formula; lets discuss the consequences of an ill-fitting diaper and how it relates to our chosen hobby. We all know the results of an ill fitting diaper, it either fails to adequately share the load or if too large, fail to adequately contain the load. How does a diaper compare to a bonsai container? Quite simple! The bonsai container, not unlike a diaper has a specific function in the tree’s life. A properly fitted diaper not unlike a properly sized container, which drains well, is warm and comfy.

Unlike a diaper, (although the new ones are now designed for little boys or girls due to their physical differences) a bonsai container is at times species specific. The watering requirement or uptake of individual trees will often play an important role when choosing a suitable container. The sole purpose of a container (with the exception of anchoring the tree and display purposes) is to act as “a dinner table”. The tree should be able to eat what is placed on its plate in one sitting, and only replace the moisture loss during the course of the day, until the next watering takes place. Hence, the warm comfy diaper! The latter is easier said than done, so let’s reflect on the tangibles here. In the beginning, more often than not the root mass dictates the size of the container. This is where the similarities end. Whilst as a baby grows the need to increase to a bigger size in maintaining its comfort becomes paramount, in bonsai culture we do the opposite. In subsequent years, this mass is reduced and eventually a container aesthetically proportioned is chosen. In doing so, there is always a caveat. The chosen container must be able to assist in sustaining life. Not only must it be of adequate size to meet the trees demands, it must also be suitable in meeting the trees living conditions and climate. An ideal container is one that will drain freely and allow the substrate to contain only enough moisture until the next watering, while providing sufficient surface area to keep the roots cool during heat waves at the height of the summer. Should the container fail to provide these conditions the results is either a sodden substrate or a parched one. Albeit, in the short term this may not be hazardous to the tree’s health, the tree will not develop its full potential, will put on a sickly appearance and in the long run could invariably lead to its demise.

So how does one choose an appropriate sized container? The size as mentioned is dictated by the root mass, for the most part. The daily intake of the species iaw the species guide permits us to formulate an educated guess, while keeping in mind the moisture retentiveness of the substrate. Contrary to popular belief, a shallow pot will retain more water than a deep pot, regardless of the surface area due to the perched water table. I will not discuss this phenomenon here as a link can be found in the “Learning to walk…” article, which discusses it at great length. Suffice to say that keeping this known phenomenon in the back of our minds will play dividends in the long run. Regardless of the size of the container, the perched water table exists at a height pre-determined by the resistance of the substrate composition, adding a so called “drainage layer” serves no useful purpose with the exception of adding false peace of mind to the enthusiast, as the perched water table will form above said drainage layer. Manipulation of substrate components on the other hand plays an important role alongside container size and tree uptake.

A proper container is one of suitable size for the tree’s requirements, is aesthetically pleasing, complements the tree vice causing a distraction and last but not least, provides enough space for bottom growth until subsequent repotting, not unlike buying slightly oversize clothing for a growing toddler.

Vitamin supplement
With daily feedings both our child and trees are prospering. As they grow their needs change, therefore we must modify their daily intake from straight formula to something more sustaining. With a substrate containing an organic component, the mere decomposition of this component will provide the tree with sufficient nutrients to sustain life, but in many cases insufficient to really prosper. This is further exacerbated in totally inorganic substrates. A direct relationship can be extrapolated between the necessity of daily vitamin intake of humans, found in particular foods or an appropriate vitamin supplement. Our trees on the other hand receive their nutrients as discussed via the decomposition of organic matter. Although the decomposition provides adequate nourishment, our trees require certain micro nutrients to thrive. Understanding the nutritional deficiencies of our trees is paramount to healthy growth. A multi vitamin containing the appropriate minerals can be found in balanced fertilizer, one that has an even distribution of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Nitrogen is responsible for promoting strong stems and healthy dark leaves. A lack of Nitrogen will result in thin, weak shoots and small, yellow leaves which rapidly fall. On the other hand too much Nitrogen produces sappy stems, large leaves both of which are vulnerable to fungal attack. Whilst Nitrogen is the main components for sustaining life in plants, phosphorus is necessary for strong, healthy roots and for prolific fruit production. A deficiency reduces root growth causing general poor vigour and discoloured foliage. The last component is potassium which is necessary in balancing the effects of Nitrogen, is essential to flower production as well as promoting resistance to fungal disease and generally hardening off the tree against harsh environmental and climatic conditions.

Not unlike a child who later develops and affliction and requires special care, certain tree species have specific needs when it comes to their growing environment. The alkalinity of the soil plays an important role and is one that is often overlooked. Having said that, no harm will come to the tree if the PH level of the soil is not exactly correct. The easiest method in lowering the alkalinity for trees that require a slightly more acidic soil is the occasional feeding of “Miracid”. I have had difficulty on acquiring such a product in my locality; however, any good “coniferous fertilizer” containing an NPK of 30-10-10 will do nicely when applied a fortnight or even every second fortnight at half strength. This is the simplest and safest method to lower the soils PH.

An anemic child who has developed an iron deficiency is given iron supplements. In bonsai culture the affliction is Chlorosis, the latter is caused by the lack of iron in the soil. Whilst iron is insoluble the natural action of the soil transforms this necessary mineral making it available to the tree. Although iron is not a part of the chlorophyll it must be present for the compound to form. In alkaline or neutral soils iron can be “locked up” thus appearing, as it is deficient. This often happens when excessive amounts of lime, phosphates or heavy metals are present in the soil, poor drainage or where over watering is practiced.

Growing trees and siblings
We seem to be getting along well and have a little experience under our belts, so we decide to bring a second one home. Are things the same? Well maybe, but probably not. Ask any parent – they will tell you each one is different and the same applies to bonsai. Although of the same species, some trees not unlike siblings will react differently to practiced methods. Once again not unlike siblings each one will respond differently and has specific needs. These needs must be met and maintained in order for the child or bonsai to develop its full potential. I have two Fukien Teas, Fred and Ginger, they are indeed brother and sister, and for the love of me I have yet figured them out. They have been in my possession for 3 years now. Their behaviour is mind boggling to say the least. While one is flourishing, the other throws a tantrum and vice versa. I have yet for the love of me been able to have them fully satisfied at the same time. This constant battle in meeting their demands is not unlike parenting children. Just when you think the battle is won, they throw a curve ball at you.

Not unlike brothers, or brothers and sisters, different cultures have different needs and demands. The learned enthusiast has gained the necessary experience to deal with these individualities. And although one can treat its collection as a whole, one must remain cognizant of their varying needs and cater to those needs on an individual basis. Regardless of the experienced you have gained, not unlike parenting; don’t pat yourself on the back yet. You have raised six children into well-adjusted adults, and then the seventh child comes along and throws everything you have learnt out the window. None of the previously proven methods and rules seems to work; this one has turned your world upside down. Isn’t parenting and raising bonsai fun!

A trip to the dentist
Mother nature has taught us to avoid unpleasantness or things that make us downright miserable. So please explain why one would take a tree home, break its arm, set it, place it in a cast, not to mention giving it a root canal along the way and then expect it to be happy and prosper. Wouldn’t it be better if the first trip to the dentist were a pleasant one, vice a root canal? I am pretty sure that a child is more apt to return to the dentist if the past experience was a pleasant one. A tree not unlike the human body needs time to recuperate from surgery. As with humans doing numerous surgical procedures all at once, without recuperation and mending time is indeed life threatening.

The first thing one should do when bringing a tree home from a nursery is change its diaper, wash its bottom, and place it in a warm comfy one. In bonsai talk this translates to: bare rooting the tree, placing it in bonsai substrate suitable for the species, fitting it with a proper container for its current stage of development and give it its first meal (a dose of 10-52-10 at half strength followed by a dose at full strength 2 weeks later). Which is more apt to provide positive results? If the latter cannot be accomplished it is better to leave the tree in its current soil and pot until such time as you can properly take care of it.

Acquiring an education
Bonsai not unlike a toddler takes time to develop and master the lessons learnt. The parent through thoughtful nurturing and caring accomplishes the latter. Like a child a bonsai needs time to nurture and develop. This developmental phase is either carried out in the ground or a grow box of suitable proportions. It is not conducted in a bonsai pot. During this developmental phase the tree is pretty much left on its own to develop and flourish, only necessary “shape pruning” is carried out, not unlike correcting faults or unwanted behaviour in a child. As the toddler develops it is soon time to attend kindergarten and for a bonsai, receives its first training pot. This is when and where the formal education and training will take place. In the case of the tree when the trunk has reached the desired proportions. Over the next couple of years the tree is pruned, shaped and trained. Like a child, it is receiving its formal education.

While acquiring an education, for the lessons to be successful and comprehended, the teacher must teach at a level easily understood by the child. It is further understood that one will not progress to the next phase until previous lessons have been understood and mastered. The bonsai enthusiast also needs to apply these principles while nurturing its tree. Too much all at once only leads to confusion. Not unlike the child the tree was not capable of taking in the information, as it was incapable of following the path of instruction provided by the enthusiast. This is also comparable to receiving multiple surgeries all at once. The body, as the tree needs time to recuperate between surgical intrusions. In bonsai talk this translates to “growing seasons”. Now finally one may be able to comprehend why it takes so long to develop a bonsai, regardless if it was grown from seed or acquired from a nursery. The only difference between the two is time.

Adoption
Acquiring Yamadori or nursery stock is comparable to adopting a child, someone else has molded it and although it may have been provided with a sound up bringing, it may possess faults that require correction, or have to repeat a grade in order to correct training flaws. The advantage nursery stock or Yamadori have over seedlings and cuttings, is that the enthusiast will generally acquire these trees with the developmental phases already carried out (girth). This phase for the purpose of this discussion is known as primary school. Once a tree has matured to the level prescribed herein it is now ready to commence high school. In this case a bonsai pot.

Learning to walk in Bonsai

2008-01-19T16:48:00.022-04:00

Updated and edited 29 January 2010.

This article originally appeared at Bonsaisite. I never intended to regurgitate information readily available on the Internet, but rather have it serve as a compendium of extremely well written and informative articles floating around cyberspace, "one stop shopping" for beginners into this passion of ours. It seems that "Bonsai" is shrouded in a mystical "aura", a lot of myths have surfaced over the years, and the Internet further exacerbates them. It is no wonder folks who take up "Bonsai" are often confused. It is extremely difficult to decipher between facts and myths when, even reference books written on the subject seem to contradict each other.

Up until the 90s when the Internet was born, bonsai enthusiasts were few and far between. Information was very scarce and often only available in books. There was a lot of trial and error on the part of enthusiasts and even "Western Masters." This trial and error period didn't necessarily lead to best practices. Individuals lacking in practical knowledge and experience (relative to today's standards) wrote books and thus the misinformation contained was passed around as gospel.

Now with the availability of the Internet, enthusiasts are able to link up across the world and compare experiences, improving their overall knowledge and good practices in real time. This is why, to anyone familiar with modern bonsai on the Internet, many pre-90 bonsai books are inaccurate and in some cases downright wrong! While some are great references, there is also a number of shocking ones. Though these were considered to be reliable sources at the time, the authors themselves would probably disagree with what they wrote 10, 20, or even 30 years ago.

Acknowledgments
The information contained hereinafter is the culmination of Harry Harrington and Brent Walston's work. Harry is an avid and knowledgeable enthusiast while Brent owns Evergreen Gardenworks, a renowned and specialized nursery that grows "bonsai stock". This article is not meant as a duplication of what has already been written. One may find copied sections from the original text with hyper-links to the original articles. The intent is to paint a broad stroke approach to "Bonsai" from beginning to end. Without further ado, let's begin our journey.

Learning to walk
Rome wasn't built in a day, nor can "Bonsai" be created in weeks, or even months. It takes years to produce "Bonsai". Producing "Bonsai" takes time and patience.

Even amongst the more knowledgeable and reputable enthusiasts, opinions and approaches vary. Brent wrote:

"Don't buy a "bonsai"! That is a poor way to begin this fascinating hobby and usually doomed to failure. "Bonsai" is not about "owning" bonsai trees, but rather the enjoyment of caring for them and especially creating them."

Harry's take on the subject is diametrically opposed:

"Why is it necessary for everyone to feel the need to create "Bonsai", particularly when many will fail to achieve anything worthy of being called Bonsai? Creating a good bonsai is considerably more difficult than simply caring for one. People should be encouraged to buy healthy bonsai from a reputable source to at least sate their initial enthusiasm.

The commonly held idea that the average purchased bonsai is by any means finished and would not benefit from 5-10 years work on the branch structure, (improving it's scale and ramification) or work on its trunk and nebari (improving the lateral roots, their scale and ramification), is very naive. Until an enthusiast truly understands what separates "good" bonsai design from "bad" bonsai design, how can they hope to guide a seedling there?

When a beginner has gained the knowledge required to look after a bonsai successfully (both in horticultural and aesthetics terms), then they can go on to the next step, which is to create them. If bonsai is truly an art form as well as a craft, we need to move away from the DIY mentality that states that a bonsai not developed from seedling or raw material by its owner is somehow inferior."

Harry states that this is not a common opinion in the "Bonsai Community" and I have to agree, both of these observations have merit. That being said, it is my opinion even as a neophyte, that most will not begin their journey with either.

"Many nurseries and vendors sell inexpensive plants in pots and call them bonsai. With care they could become bonsai, but they are not bonsai. On the Internet we have adopted the term "Mall Bonsai" or "mallsai" for these plants. One learns the basics of "Bonsai" best by creating them, even your first one. Without these basic principles, it is unreasonable to expect that someone could keep one alive, let alone maintain it as art. There is also the cost factor. Any "real" bonsai will take at least five years of development to be convincing. To buy such a bonsai would cost several hundred dollars. Of course you can find "mallsai" everywhere, even in grocery stores. These are junk and are not "Bonsai". A two-year-old juniper cutting plunked unceremoniously into a bonsai pot is not "Bonsai". It is the care and training that makes "Bonsai"; these plants have none".

However, in the care of an inspired and talented artist, even "mallsai" can be made beautiful. Here's a classic example. If this seems daunting, well, it is. It takes years to learn most bonsai skills, well, approximately two years to learn the basics anyway. Styling skills are learnt over a lifetime. Well then, how do you start? First and foremost read as much as you can find about bonsai.

Acquiring suitable material
Regardless of what has been said about "mallsai", most beginners receive their introduction to "Bonsai" by purchasing or receiving a "mallsai" as a gift, cute little trees in bonsai pots that flood the market during the festive season. The reason these trees are called "junk" is because they are mass-produced in growing fields, for a quick turn around. The best-grown stock finds its way onto the Asian market, the remainder sold to Western countries as "mallsai.

It takes time to properly grow "bonsai stock", anywhere from 15-25 years and more. During this time, the nursery cares for, and shapes the trees that in turn become "potensai" (potential bonsai). During this lengthy period, nurseries see no return on their investment, all they are doing is pouring time and money into developing stock, that is why "bonsai stock" is so expensive, more often than not reaching in the high hundreds and even thousands of dollars.

"Mallsai" on the other hand are relatively inexpensive, and some do indeed make good starter material at a reasonable price. The problem often encountered with "mallsai" is that the majority have serious flaws. These trees are the "bottom of the barrel"; nurseries sell these cheap in order to recover their investment. The following article depicts the necessary steps for acquiring nursery stock. In this article, you will find important information on what to look for when selecting nursery stock, which, can also be applied when purchasing a "mallsai". Should you choose the latter, refrain from all temptations to purchase from any vendor any tree that he cannot: A. identify for you and, B. provide you with necessary care instructions. Another important factor often overlooked is the acquisition of material not suited for your geographical location. Most nurseries found in one's neighborhood will only carry material, suitable for your geographical location. All bets are off when ordering across geographical regions from the Internet.

Learn to look after your first tree successfully and your confidence will grow enough to widen your horizons and successfully learn more advanced techniques. But don't run before you walk. The first fundamental rule to learn when embarking on this journey is that you are dealing with something living and ever changing; the basic rules of horticulture need be learned before you can successfully maintain your tree.

Forget about taking your cute little tree and make it into a bonsai overnight, it is not going to happen. Your focus right now is, keeping the tree alive! When you have accomplished that over the course of a year, then you can go on to other things. So what about pruning and wiring etc… forget about that for the time being, your focus should still be on maintaining your tree healthy.

Plant Selection
Trees can be broken down into two main categories: indoor and outdoor species. Indoor species are often referred to as "tropical" whilst outdoor species are broken down into conifers, evergreens and deciduous trees. Anyone interested in growing bonsai indoors are highly recommended to acquire the following references on the subject: "Bonsai in your Home" and "Ficus the Exotic Bonsai". The former depicts all species suitable for indoor "bonsai", along with information on the growing conditions required for each species. The latter is a compendium on the care and development of "Ficus" as "Bonsai". It is my opinion that any serious enthusiasts growing "indoor bonsai, not armed with these two references are merely marking time. These books along with several other written articles are an absolute necessity for indoor trees to thrive. Without this knowledge, your trees are basically just plants in a fancy bonsai pot. It is impossible to mimic tropical conditions in one's home, however one can create a suitable ecosystem within their means and budget. When it comes to reference material this site has an extensive "book review" section.

Basic Care
All your tree needs is tender loving care! How does one apply TLC? Your tree to survive and flourish needs: good soil, to be properly watered, fed and provided with sufficient sunlight to remain healthy. Quite simple isn't it? Well not really, it is a little more complicated than that.

Growing medium (soil)
Let's begin with the medium your tree is growing in, bonsai culture differs tremendously compared to growing trees in the ground. Everyone is looking for the magic "soil recipe" stop; there is no such thing. What you need is: a soil that is free draining, oxygenated and retains moisture; the latter is not "potting soil". So what makes up a good soil? Combining the right amount of organic matter (nutrients and moisture retention) and inorganic components (which provide for good drainage and more important root development).

Whilst the organic component is normally sifted composted pine or fir bark, the inorganic component is any form of grit; sometimes this is crushed granite, coarse sand etc… small sharp pebbles, about 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch in diameter. This provides valuable air space for oxygenation of the roots, whilst providing good drainage and assisting in evaporation. The other extremely important inorganic component is some type of porous material in the size specified which, has the ability to retain moisture (read moisture) not water. This enables the tree to "drink" as required to survive between being watered, this component is crucial to the health of your trees during the hot summer months. This is a crucial component because with our free flowing medium, water is dispensed readily. Contrary to what folks might think, trees are not on "IV", in other words, tree do not take up water on a continual basis. Trees that require water will take it up via the roots when watered, and will only replace the moisture loss trough transpiration, just like you drink when you're thirsty. In "Bonsai", you must provide a way for the excess water to be eliminated, as improper drainage will result in root rot, and eventually a dead tree. A free draining soil and a container of the proper size provides the former.

The organic and porous components in your soil recipe provide a sort of reservoir to replenish moisture loss due to transpiration during the day, until the next watering session. You should be watering your tree daily, sometimes twice a day during the summer months; this is not a golden rule, but a guideline. A good draining soil is one that water starts coming out of the pot as soon as you start watering the soil from the top. Providing your trees are healthy and depending on individual climates, your soil mixture will vary with every individual and region where these trees are grown. That is why there is no "magic”"recipe.

When the Japanese refer to sand, they are not talking about beach sand, but an extremely coarse sand, similar in size as previously mentioned. Soil by "their" definition is nowhere near to what we think soil is, or should be. Regular garden soil will not work as it retains too much water. Brent has written an extremely informative article "Why earth is not like a pot". He goes on to describe why "over-potting" (a common mistake made by neophytes and often, learned artists alike) our trees should be avoided. To grow trees in a pot we modify our soil to suit our geographical area. Listed below is good starting point that will get you there, these figures are all by volume not weight:

- for conifers: 30% sifted pine bark, 35% porous material, 35% grit
- for deciduous: 50% sifted pine bark, 25% porous material, 25% grit
- for tropicals: 60% sifted pine bark, 20% porous material, 20% grit

The first one is for trees that like to remain on the dry side; the second for trees that like to be kept moist and lastly for trees who like to remain damp (not sodden) at all times. Depending on your growing conditions, you may need to adjust the components. As trees do not need organic matter to live, I would recommend adding less organic matter if your soil retains too much moisture and adding more "porous material" if it doesn't retain enough, modify your mix to suit your needs. Harry has recently revised his soil article, the reason I mention it, is because as recent as 3 years ago, soils were different than what they are today and, the present shift in the community is the use of totally inorganic growing medium for bonsais and some are even considering growing them hydroponicly, the latter was discussed with "Ficus Jerry". The medium in which we grow our trees is forever changing, however one thing is for certain: potting soil is for house plants.

Watering our trees
We covered soil and touched on watering in providing our trees with TLC. One would think watering is a simple task, but in "bonsai culture" nothing can be further from the truth. Harry describes basic watering, the effects of watering and rain and, what to do on holidays. To dispel a rooted bonsai myth you should take the time to read about misting your trees.

Feeding (fertilizing)
I've provided you with two of the four components of "TLC", the third is feeding your trees or providing them with the appropriate nourishment for them to be healthy and thrive. This is probably the most complex component of nurturing our trees. Too little and our trees are under nourished and will put on a sickly appearance, whist too much results in all kinds of problems, including death. Fertilizing your bonsai is critical, the application and what to apply will vary with the seasons and whether the tree is under development or a mature tree. The latter will require what is called a "maintenance program".

Sufficient light
Last but not least the final component is sufficient light. More important, the proper amount of light. If you cannot provide your tree with the necessary amount of shade or sunlight, the purchase of said tree becomes a moot point. If your growing or display area is in the shade, is it not pointless to purchase trees that require full sun and vice versa? Not only will the tree fail to thrive under these conditions, it may eventually die.

Anyone wanting to develop "tropicals" indoors without providing them with 12-16 hrs of supplemental lighting a day is wasting their time. The best darn article on the subject may be found on Jerry Meislik's site, also known as "Ficus Jerry" and the author of "Ficus the Exotic Bonsai". When dealing with tropicals, Jerry is quite renown for his in depth knowledge on the subject.

Winter Care
Once you have learned how to keep your tree alive and healthy by meeting its needs you must prepare ahead of time, depending on your geographical location how to care for your trees during winter. For folks that reside in temperate regions this is not a problem, for the remainder of us, our first winter is something that is feared. Armed with the appropriate knowledge, the latter becomes a moot point.

Basic Skills
Everyone in the beginning wants to have a finished bonsai. As discussed a "Bonsai" is never really finished and takes years to create. I believe a person needs to understand the basics of pruning and pinching not to mention the appropriate timing when these techniques are applied prior to styling their tree. Learning the basic skills required to do "Bonsai" as previously discussed takes about two years. Although, this might seem a daunting task, not taking the time to learn and do it right from the onset will not only delay the development of your tree but your experience as well. Mistakes made in the beginning take years to correct, often-improper pruning results in "spoiled potensai". The early mistakes cannot be undone; the end result is a mediocre "Bonsai" at best.

Potting
Let's face it; trees look good in bonsai pots. The truth of the matter is, only a finished or near finished trees should be in a bonsai pot, unless you are completely satisfied with the tree in its present state. One needs to understand the underlying growth principles and how to maximize such growth, towards good trunk development, and initial styling all that will not take place in a bonsai pot. This is probably the hardest point in "Bonsai" to get across to folks who begin this fascinating journey. Everyone wants instant gratification, which will only come with time. The best method to grow out stock is in the ground; forget about the tree for 5-10 years. The latter, is often impractical and presents certain obstacles. The tree needs to be rotated occasionally unless it is planted in such a location where it receives the sun on all sides. We know that the North side will receive the least amount, that is why grow boxes are used, the shallower the better. Not only do grow boxes provide the capability to rotate the trees to ensure equal growth on all sides, but assists in root development while growing out stock. They further assist with pruning and most importantly, wiring or the use of "guy wires", which can be anchored to the box itself:

This tree (Juniperus Chinensis Blauw) was cheaply acquired as raw nursery stock. As it can be seen, the tree was lopsided, probably the result of cramped growing conditions and the lack of being properly rotated over time, as all the foliage is pointed in one direction. After the tree was cleaned up, this was quite noticeable.

This tree was bought for trunk size, taper and branching low on the trunk, not to mention some important budding in close and on the trunk. The tree was bare rooted, received some minor root work and placed in a grow box. Over the course of the next couple of weeks the tree was examined on a daily basis, unnecessary branches were removed.

Once the majority of the foliage was removed, the tree was studied once again and the trunk line established. The trunk line is a path the tree and branches take that will eventually form the finished tree. A point to note here: "original branching" in most cases will not form or be part of the finished tree.

As time passed more pruning was carried out of all branches that would not be part of the finished tree. Because the nebari was pretty much uniform, choosing a front should not pose a problem. A few "guy wires" were applied and the tree was left to recover. Because of the nebari, the front for this tree will be the result of where the new growth takes place and therefore inconsequential at this time. This tree is 3 - 5 years before seeing a bonsai pot. The tree was 30 inches from the soil line when purchased; I envision a finished tree in the vicinity of 12-15 inches.

Re-potting
If the correct container from previous discussion was selected, young trees will need repotting about every second year. Trees are normally re-potted during spring. Knowing when to repot your bonsai is of paramount importance towards success. How to re-pot is as equally important as its aftercare. When it comes to "tropicals", they can be re-potted at any time during the year providing, they are healthy, and they are not dormant. The species guide will indicate when the tree is normally inactive. Keeping in mind that the majority or trees native from the Southern hemisphere have different dormant periods, as their seasons are the complete opposite of ours in the Northern hemisphere. My Bougainvillea to my surprise flowers in the fall, my Adenium Obessum (Desert Rose) as well.

Wiring
Wiring is an important part of the process of styling your bonsai and nearly all well designed bonsai have been fully wired at least 2 to 3 times during their development. Though at first a daunting technique to master, it gives the bonsai enthusiast better control and manipulation of the trunk and branches of their bonsai.

Art principles, golden section, visual movement
No doubt the hardest part besides keeping your tree alive is to finally style it. Very few of us are born with artistic flare. We all have some to a degree or another, but the majority of us struggle with the concepts behind it. Understanding the fundamentals behind good bonsai design can be learned. Understanding the concepts of visual movement and the principles behind the "Golden Section" are paramount in creating an overall harmonic balance in your design. The late John Naka said; "Don't make your tree look like bonsai, make your bonsai look like tree". No truer words were ever spoken. Many who have applied "this principle" have been harshly criticized for doing so. Nonetheless, the most famous Bonsai have followed all the rules and principles described above, in creating a naturalistic tree that seems untouched by human hands. Most beginners state that they are merely duplicating nature and thus, have styled their tree naturalisticly. What they have not yet realized as they chastise the constraints of basic design, is that the hardest style to master is the naturalistic one. Walter Pall is famous for creating natural looking trees. He received harsh criticism for doing so, when he doesn't receive such criticism; he is disappointed on missing the mark. To Walter, the more his tree his criticized, the better he feels otherwise he believes he has created a "boring" tree. Anyone who has seen Walter’s work knows the latter is not true.

Advance Techniques
I debated long and hard whether or not I should discuss advance techniques in this article. As this article was primarily designed to help folks who begin their journey, I will forgo discussing it here. By the time you are ready to delve into the abyss, you will have gained sufficient knowledge of our craft to move forward. However, both Harry and Brent have numerous articles available on their sites, along with progression series to demonstrate the various techniques. One needs to remember that this journey is a long one, and full of rewards. It will take you at least two years to learn the basic skills required. Your mind set after that period will have changed. If you are able to resist (very difficult) creating "bonsai" overnight, your rewards will be tenfold; there will be plenty of time in the future to learn and apply advanced skills and techniques.

My reference material
Following is a list of my reference library. As I began this hobby not unlike many of you, I thirsted for knowledge. It was quite some time before I found and joined any discussion group. In my quest, I purchased books that covered specific details I sought. Short book reports on my collection. In my opinion the following short list is a must for anyone serious in practicing our craft:

Bonsai It's Art, Science, History and Philosophy
by Deborah Koreshoff
ISBN 0908175752
Bonsai techniques Vol I
by John Yoshio Naka
ISBN 0930422317
Bonsai techniques Vol II
by John Yoshio Naka
ISBN 093042233
Bonsai in your Home
by Paul Lesniewicz
ISBN 0806907819
Home Gardener's Problem Solver
by Ortho Books
ISBN 0897215044

The first three books in "Bonsai Circles" are known as bibles! Well the Nakas are anyway. I have crowned Deborah's the same. John Yoshio Naka was one of, if not the founder of Bonsai in North America. His books are his lifelong notes and were translated from Japanese. The information contained in his books is invaluable. However, because the books were translated from his personal notes, it often leaves individuals with many unanswered questions, as I found the amount of detail insufficient at times. Vol II seems to have addressed this issue but in no way compares to the depth of detail contained in Deborah's book. I am not promoting one over the other, as these books can stand on their own merits. However I am willing to say, that if the purchase of the "Nakas" occurred after the purchase of Deborah's book I would have been somewhat disappointed. Notwithstanding, one has to remember the source of the "Nakas"; these were his personal notes.

I first became interested in "Bonsai" more than 20 years ago; the information available on the subject was sketchy at best. I was led to believe that all "bonsais" were outdoor trees with special wintering requirements. I'm not talking "overwintering" bonsais, but that they required more or less a conservatory, with temperatures maintained between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Now with the advent of the Internet and discussion groups, we come to find out it is indeed possible to grow "Bonsai" indoors. "Bonsai in your Home" by Paul Lesniewicz is a great reference for those who prefer growing bonsais in their homes or because they are incapable of growing them outdoors for various reasons, those who live in apartments for example.

Most bonsai manuals contain an abbreviated list on pests and disease. The information contained, although somewhat useful, is vague, and thoroughly incomplete, which, led me to the purchase of "Home Gardener's Problem Solver". This book contains all known diseases and afflictions your plants, flowers, vegetables and trees may be infected with. Nonetheless, because this book was published by "Ortho" the recommended remedies are with the use of "Ortho products". Not to despair, they do prescribe the treatment and providing you follow their recommendation as to which chemicals to use, you should be well on your way in treating your tree to full recovery.

The latter is really a problem as many pesticides are now banned in Canada. In Nova Scotia, outside of organic treatment of pests and diseases, one is pretty much left to his own devices. However, the book diagnoses the problem you might have in great detail, including pictures of the affliction. The remainder of my reference material:

May I direct your attention to an excellent periodical "Bonsai Today". This is an excellent magazine and well worth the price in my opinion. It is available from Stone Lantern Publishing, many of the great bonsai artists share their wisdom in this publication and the attention to detail is second to none.

During the time the original article was written, Bonsai Today was a great periodical as was Bonsai Europe. Then, Bonsai Today started to slip, the content was becoming substandard and the magazine more a billboard than an educational avenue.

Bonsai Europe during this time frame was similar in nature to what Bonsai Today once was. Both magazines merged to become Bonsai Focus. In the beginning it seemed we were getting the best of both worlds. We don't know the reasons behind the merge, but today what was once to great periodicals, is now an "OK" publication.

There is still valuable content in Bonsai Focus. But the periodical is definitely not what it used to be.

Conclusion
I hope I was able to offer some insight into this fascinating hobby. Carefully bookmark this article so you can refer to it often. There is a lot of information to digest, but nonetheless necessary. I periodically read a book from my library that I have previously read and I always find new or forgotten information on every read. Welcome to the World of Bonsai, our hobby is a fascinating and rewarding one Good Luck!!